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Hello need your help

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mubidx

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Hello

i have a equipment which works on 46 to 48 volts dc problem is the power supply i have is 53 volts dc is there any solution which can drop sufficient volts to make my equipment work..

thanks
 
How much current does your equipment take?

If it takes less than 1amp, use a string of 1N 4004 diodes. Each diode will drop 0.7v and they cost only 10cents each.

If the current is 2 - 3 amps, use 1N5404. They also drop 0.7v and cost about 25 cents each. You will need to heat-sink all the diodes.
 
If the current is 2 - 3 amps, use 1N5404. They also drop 0.7v and cost about 25 cents each. You will need to heat-sink all the diodes.

How do you effectively heat-sink a 1N5404? I guess it would be better to use a diode in a TO220 package.
 
The way to heatsink a 3 amp diode is to use a strip of PC board 5 - 8 cm wide. Cut the copper with a saw to create separate lands and drill holes so that the leads can be soldered to the board. Keep the leads fairly short. Each diode is going to dissipate 2 watts, so keep them apart.
 
The way to heatsink a 3 amp diode is to use a strip of PC board 5 - 8 cm wide. Cut the copper with a saw to create separate lands and drill holes so that the leads can be soldered to the board. Keep the leads fairly short. Each diode is going to dissipate 2 watts, so keep them apart.

This is fairly good but its not that effecient. The heat from the junction of the diode will go through case, then to lead, then to copper board, then to ambient.

How do you effectively heat-sink a 1N5404? I guess it would be better to use a diode in a TO220 package.

Tabbed devices are better in terms of thermal considerations. They have lower thermal resistance.
 
It's fairly pointless talking about heatsinking, when we don't know anything about the actual problem - it's vague in the extreme.

I have found it is fairly pointless helping most of the posters because they either have absolutley no idea what they want and most of the requirements run into a problem that only an engineer can solve and only $500 can pay for.
 
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first of all thanks for replying for your info my equipment works on 5 amp any other solutions ....
 
What is the accuracy of your 53 volt source? Is it adjustable? How much current can it supply?

Assuming that your source is 53.0V and you desire 47.0V at 5.0 amperes, you'll be dissipating up to 30 watts. We need more information such as what is your 'equipment'. Is it a motor, lamp, computer, telecommunications rack?
 
My equipment is BUC (block up converter) used in satellite communications the power supply is not adjustable actually i need something which i can use b/w supply and BUC to decrease the volts the supply gives 53volts 5amp if the amperes drop this not a problem the equipment i using it can also work on 2 to 3 amperes so if you guys can please help me with this i will be very thankful
 
and also i was wrong about that the equipment can work on 2 to 3 amp the current it require is 5 amp
 
Are you also sure that your equipment won't work at 53V? 53V is only a 11% increase from 48V. Post a link to the spec sheet of the equipment you are using.
 
Yeah, a lot of 48V stuff will actually run on 53V with no problem.
Burning off 30W in a series-pass arrangement could make a problem.
 
If the equipment takes 5 amp at 48v, the wattage is 240watt
If the voltage is increased to 53v, the wattage is 292 watt. This is an increase of of more than 20%.
This will overload some devices. It is better to lose 25 watts in regulation than overpower the circuit with 53 watts.
 
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4 x 12v globes in series will get very hot with excess voltage/current.
It may be a motor. Excess voltage may overheat it.
It may be a heating-mat designed for 48v.

I have absolutley no idea what the load is. But the request has been for a stable voltage of 48v and I have suggested the simplest solution is to clamp a number of 20 amp bridges to a heatsink and allow each bridge to drop about 1.4v
 
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request has been for a stable voltage of 48v and I have suggested the simplest solution is to clamp a number of 20 amp bridges to a heatsink and allow each bridge to drop about 1.4v

That's not going to give OP a "stable voltage", that's a voltage subtractor. That will actually decrease the stability of the voltage, expressed as a percent, of an unstable source voltage.


BTW - did you know filament bulbs in series burn out sooner than filament bulbs in parallel?
 
(not that I think a bunch of diode-drops is generally a bad idea, I've done it myself that way many times)
 
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