For the Dog units, a 40 way Turned Pin socket cut in half and spaced at 1.8" does the job - nice and easy !Very nice! On the .1" , is that PDIP?
I picked K8LH from the list of available calls in February '99.
That is incredible! Just incredible! Even the price. That settles it. I have to pick up a few of these. So I can follow your link to locate it? I want the one you are talking about with the touch feature and built in controller. Will it be hard to select the proper part number? This would be perfect for a radio I intend to build. A nice bell & whistleHi,
The touch screen I have shown and used is what EA call a Digital Resistive type, which has a 5x3 switch matrix.
This type does not have or need a controller of any sort, you just connect it to your micros input port with a pullup resistor like any conventional switch.
You can connect it as a full 5x3 switch matrix, but I do not need so many, in my test picture, I just use three of the bottom row connected to the micro with the bottom common rail to 0v. (my screen graphics switch boxes are really too big - it was just an image I had to hand for my first test )
You can measure the 'switch' resistance with a meter , its about 1k on and over 20meg off. - you could easily use it on things other than the glcds.
The price in here is GB £8.50 plus taxes etc. + the little cable connector which is a must.
There is another type of screen usually refered to as an Analogue Resistive, that does require a separate controller and allows you do much more, like direct touch entry graphics etc.
OK maybe wasn't clear. What does the connector look like for just the display? Is it DIP or what?Hi Tuned Wolf and Space Varmit -
Thanks for those kind words - much apprieciated.
SV - assume you are unsure about soldering that 10 way smd connector for the touch screen ?
I know what you mean, I'm not into smd either - but I did find it fairly easy to do.
The cable can be removed from the connector when ever you want - its not a one time connection.
I did it my very simple means - just make a little pcb like the one shown with a more suitable .1" connector on it.
I use a small Antex CS 18 W iron with thier smallest pointed bit.
Just tin the pcb as normal, then use some solder wick to remove virtually all of it from the smd pads, so its a flat matt look to it.
Position the connector over the pads, there a two outer mounting lugs on it which you solder first to hold it firmly in place.
Then put you bit and solder on the track several mm away from the pin, the molten solder will then virtually run up the tinned track and do the job for you.
Any errors, just remove the solder with the wick and go again.