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That would work, except the 4awg wire feeds other devices too, so I would not want nuisance tripping if it goes over 50.Change the 100A fuse to a 50A and all will be protected.
Mike.
In which case add the 50A fuse as specified.I should also add that my only concern is safety of the passengers (and myself) on the boat, so I only care about protecting from fires. I do not care at all about protecting the amp for the amp's sake, unless it leads to a fire hazard.
It's a boat. If something catches fire, you may have nowhere to run. A 50 A fuse and holder is less than $10. I would fit one.I should also add that my only concern is safety of the passengers (and myself) on the boat, so I only care about protecting from fires. I do not care at all about protecting the amp for the amp's sake, unless it leads to a fire hazard.
I agree with everything you just said, except the price. I just bought one and it was more than $10. A marine grade (waterproof) fuse and holder are about twice that much. But your point is still valid.It's a boat. If something catches fire, you may have nowhere to run. A 50 A fuse and holder is less than $10. I would fit one.
Probably not, but I want to future proof it. It's on a boat. It's a car amp which is on a boat. I bought the boat a few months ago and apparently the previous owner did not understand the importance of using marine equipment on a boat.Do you really have something else on the bus that will draw significant current?
It's unlikely that the car amp will draw anywhere near 50A (600 watts) continuous unless you are playing really loud music to multiple speakers.
A slow-blow fuse will minimum nuisance tripping from short transient currents.
Years ago, Cris Craft Cavalier Express 1963.Probably not, but I want to future proof it. It's on a boat. It's a car amp which is on a boat. I bought the boat a few months ago and apparently the previous owner did not understand the importance of using marine equipment on a boat.