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Dyson DC 16 Handheld Vacuum Cleaner

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Musicmanager

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys

My wife bought this little handheld vacuum cleaner to me this morning complaining that it runs for a few seconds and then stops, but if you release the trigger and then go again, you get another few seconds and then a repeat performance.
I've done some googling and this is apparently a common fault to do with a 'Hall Effect' sensor which is activated by a small magnet in one of the filter housings. Certainly, I can make it run continuously by hanging a large magnet nearby.
I found this https://www.is-beer-a-vegetable.com...Handheld_vacuum-_cuts_out_after_a_few_seconds which advocates removing this hall effect sensor ( TLE 4913 ) and bridging contacts 1 & 3. I've done this but nothing doing .. .. however, the datasheet for the TLE4913
**broken link removed** states that pin 1 is Gnd; pin 2 is input; pin 3 is output; That being the case, then bridging pin 1 & 3 is putting output to Gnd, but if there is no input - no output ? Right ?

I'm tempted to bridge pin 2 & 3 - input to output but I don't know that the voltages match .. .. .

Anybody got any previous experience with these things ??

S

PS There is a rumour that if I fix it, I may be allowed to forsake my diet and have a cheeseburger & chips, but I wouldn't hold your breath !! :)
 
hi S,
If you remove the sensor and bridge 1 and 2 that should set 2 High.[ if you are of a nervous disposition, you could use say 100R for the link

Don't short 1 and 3 as the d/s suggests that you will short out the Vs supply

Close eyes, fingers in the ears and hum very loudly.!

Eric

EDIT:
As the output pin 2 is open drain, its possible that the output is active low, shorting to 2 to 3 should do it.
 

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I'm looking in the datasheet and it does not show the pinout you mention:

upload_2015-8-21_14-1-57.png

upload_2015-8-21_14-1-37.png


The output is open-drain, meaning that when the device is "active", the output transistor connects the output to ground. Whether "active" means the vacuum is "on" or "off" I couldn't tell you without seeing a schematic. If you want it to permanently be "active", you need to short pins 2 and 3 together, but again, it depends on what it's "normal" state is.

upload_2015-8-21_14-3-22.png



EDIT: Eric, you beat me to it! :p
 
Hi Eric

Thanks for confirming my thoughts !
I will try that ... .. I am of a nervous disposition although not about the circuit; more about the flak that will come from kitchen if I blow it up ! :D

My best

S
 
Hi Matt

The output is open-drain, meaning that when the device is "active", the output transistor connects the output to ground. If you want it to permanently be "active", you need to short pins 2 and 3 together.

That would only be correct if the sensor is in place ???? If it is removed .. .. it would be 1 & 2 ?

S
 
That would only be correct if the sensor is in place ???? If it is removed .. .. it would be 1 & 2 ?

S

It would either be shorting 2 and 3 together, or leaving the output floating. I doubt it's the latter.

Also, please note that the numbers shown in the drawing you linked to ARE NOT the actual pin numbers! Linking PINS 2 and 3 together is the same as linking POINTS 1 and 3 on this drawing:

**broken link removed**
 
hi S.
It is IMPORTANT that the IC be removed before adding any links.:woot:

E
BTW: are you still dab-bling with those DAB radio's, you should be quite a dab hand by now.
[last of the silly puns, promise :nailbiting:]
 
Good Morning Eric

I have tried with all 3 combinations .. .. IC on it's own; IC removed and link in place; IC in place and link ; None of those combinations make any difference at all.

The only reason I was looking at the 'bodge' repair was because I couldn't find a replacement TLE 9413 anywhere. However, I have now found one at Farnells Element 14 site, in fact they have thousands of them, and I'm just trying to get CPC to obtain one for me, because I have an account at CPC but not with Farnell. I've also ordered a new battery because the charging cycle seems to have a problem - probably due to a thermistor in the battery pack. Still much work to be done it seems .. .. the chances of my getting a cheeseburger out of it are getting more and more remote.

DAB radios .. .. .. . I've finished my little foray into that world for now .. .. I bought a book about Circuit Analysis and quickly realised that to make any use of it I needed some circuits to analyse ! A bit logical for me, I know, but there you go .. .. .I found a guy on Ebay selling DAB radios in lots of 4 as faulty .. so I bought 4 .. .. worked out at 99p each and I was able to locate a PSU problem with all 4 so I repaired them - what a buzz I got out of that ! So I bought 4 more .. .. but only 3 were PSU problems, 1 had a signal process problem that I couldn't follow. I ended up having bought 11 and repaired 9. The repaired ones I gave to the local BHF charity shop and he has one in his window at the moment @ £25 .. .. of the 9 he has 2 left as at last Wednesday. The other 2 I cannibalised for useful bits and binned the rest.

I'm busy building the boards to do NGs ASM tutorials at the moment, in between all the other things my senior manager keeps finding me to do. My next project after that is a digital sense of humour detector based on a PIC 16f14U, a flip-flip and a flop-flop outputting to a duck converter. :)

Thanks for your support Eric, much appreciated

S
 
I've also ordered a new battery because the charging cycle seems to have a problem - probably due to a thermistor in the battery pack. Still much work to be done it seems .. .. the chances of my getting a cheeseburger out of it are getting more and more remote.

The electrical trade hate Dyson, both products and company :D
 
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