Presumably we're discussing a 12VDC system. 6.3VDC across the battery is indicative of, at the very least, a seriously compromised battery.For the voltage, I measured it before trying the jump starting and it was 6,3V.
Now, I understand that such a smaller car can fail to start a 6 cylinders
The "main fuse" is generally not a fuse at all, but a wire of a lower gauge than everything else, but located in a spot where it would do little damage if it burnt.
So I connected the + of the charged one to the + of the worn battery and then the - of the charged one to the body of the "discharged car".
I have a "comment" about the use of the word body. The negative clamp should go to the engine, The purpose is two-fold. Remove the resistance of the negative battery cable on the jumped car and more importantly keep sparks away from the battery.
Yes, the safest way to measure resistance is to disconnect the battery. I think your battery is probably shot anyway.Ok crutschow, I'll do it now. Do I have to disconnect the battery and check the resistance between negative a car body? Correct?
Not sure what you mean by the term "heart lead".... negative is disconnected from the body with the heart lead, but connected to the body via multimeter. I'd understand if had to measure the resistance of the negative lead..
Sorry, wrong H, I meant earth lead, so lead from negative to body.Not sure what you mean by the term "heart lead".
... to measure the resistance, from the end of the disconnected negative battery cable, to the body (better to use the engine block). This resistance, ideally, would be 0Ω but certainly (as suggested) no more than a few ohms. It's just a check to confirm a good connection between the battery's negative terminal and the rest of the electrical system's negative connections.
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