Yes, its not intended for electrical work, but mainly for tin bashing, and the like.Hi,
Very interesting tool. They probably used that on lead piping
Also looks like a medieval torture device
Sounds like the old soldering gun I used to have from Tandy (Radioshack) - it had written on the side to only use for a certain duty cycle - I think you could only manage around 30 seconds or so at a time.On a related issue, i got a soldering GUN from Harbor Freight and the tip burnt out after a few uses. A friend bought one too, same issue. I replaced my tip with a regular copper time but the gun body overheats quickly, so i have to use it quickly or use a variac with it to lower the input power.
So my recommendation there would be not to buy that particular soldering gun. It's the only one they sell right now and is bright orange in color.
Have you ever used the Oki / Metcal irons ? I've never found anything that can compete with them for being able to get heat into a joint in a hurry but also precise enough for precision soldering.the biggest problem with soldering irons is careful maintenance each use and getting the heat to the tip from thermal resistance in the screws, barrel or plating. My old friend who did stained glass lead soldering for over 40 Years was surprised when I told him about Nasa’s solder training handbook in the 70’s that was as thick as a few bibles. My tech’s least favourite job was rewiring a few centre wires on a 50 pin miniature cylindrical Canon connector.
Resistance soldering (American Beauty) works nice for pins too. Basicaly tweezers with (Stainless steel pins). At least, that's what I used.When I teach new interns how to solder, I demonstrate how you can solder together a couple of BNC plugs or 9 Pin D sockets in seconds - using a conventional iron, they suck the heat out almost instantly but with the Metcal you get an amazing amount of localised heat before the rest of the item you're soldering heats up too much.
You are shown two temperature controlled soldering irons, one is 60 watt and one is 40 watt. The 60 watt iron is slightly more expensive than the 40 watt iron, but not much more. Which one do you purchase?
You are shown two temperature controlled soldering irons, one is 60 watt and one is 50 watt. The 60 watt iron is slightly more expensive than the 50 watt iron, but not much more. Which one do you purchase?
You are shown two temperature controlled soldering irons, one is 60 watt and the other one is either 40 or 50 watt. The 60 watt looks a little cheaper in quality but not too much cheaper. Which one do you purchase?
If you answered "The 60 watt iron" to either question above, you probably paid too much for that iron because guess what, they are all about 40 watts !!
In various ad's on the web we see 60 watt irons that are the exact same model as the 50 watt irons, yet they are both really only 40 watts. This means they cant solder as well as a real 60 watt iron for somewhat larger metal joints.
First we see the 60 watt rating, which appears in ads for companies that dont seem to care about what they say about their product as long as it sounds good. Then we see the 50 watt rating, where the company is a little more responsible about their rating because they take their rating directly from the heating element which is stamped "50 watts, 24 volts". So we cant blame the companies that advertise 50 watts.
Measuring the DC resistance, we see that the "50 watt 24 volt" element resistance really measures 16 ohms. The power delivered to a 16 ohm resistance with 24 volts DC is:
So the elements are not even up to 40 watts yet !
The way it looks is every time the product changes hands the receiver tacks on another 10 watts, so that by the time the ad gets posted it's up to 60 watts in some cases.
That's quite deceptive because we purchase items based on what we need, and sometimes we need the higher power iron but we dont get that, when if we knew the actual rating we would get one that really fit the job.
You'll note that many soldering stations use AC not DC, but that only makes matters worse if there is any inductance because that can only lower the wattage not increase it.
One manufacturer that was contacted actually said that the "60 watts" came form the "input power to the station". But that's not accurate either because the input power with only the iron running is not anywhere near 60 watts. It's also very unlikely that a small control board and transformer would consume 20 watts of power when powering a 60 watt device on full power.
When informed about this, they simply state that you can return the entire station for a refund.
Please note that this doesnt mean that the irons dont work at all, they do, but they wont be as high powered as expected. For example, i had no trouble soldering a #24 gauge (AWG) copper wire end to a 10 turn Bourns potentiometer terminal, which is about 1/8 inch wide and about 1/8 inch long and thin metal. Didnt try #12 AWG wire yet though.
If you have any comments that would be nice to hear, or if you have any experience with these irons. The elements themselves are often advertised as "50 watts 24 volts DC".