Yes. The + end of polarized caps C1 & C2 should be on the right.Hi,
I would create a little audio amplifier (stereo), so I bought a TDA2005.
Now I'm watching ST datasheet, but being a noob, I've some doubts: I'm not sure how wires should be linked from 3,5 jack (male that will be plugged on devices, as pc, smartphone, ...)
So, I'm here to ask you if my ideas are correct or wrong: I attach an image that show my assumptions...
1) Is right link left and right wires from jack to those 2.2uF capacitors?
Yes, that is the circuit "common" node. Better name than "Ground".2) Is right link groud from jack with all "ground" (that in image I "highlighted" with brown squares), even with negative pole of battery/power source?
3) Datasheet 2200uF capacitor, circled in red in the image, is not linked wrong and may explode? Is right 2200uF capacitor on the top in the figure?
4) Can I try circuit for few seconds/minutes on breadboard (signed max 2A), using 9V or 12V battery?
The capacitance and inductance of all the contact strips and wires all over the place on a solderless breadboard might cause the audio amplifier not to work properly.
The capacitance and inductance of all the contact strips and wires all over the place on a solderless breadboard might cause the audio amplifier not to work properly.
C11 on my ST Micro datasheet is correct, I wonder why yours is wrong. A Cheap Copycat manufacturer?
Corrected thanks to AnalogKid and Audioguru, 2016_11_024) Can I try circuit for few seconds/minutes on breadboard (signed max 2A), using 9V or 12V battery?
While I fully agree with the other members points about the undesirability of building the TDA2005 amplifier on a breadboard, for the reasons stated, you should be able to get the amplifier working on a breadboard, especially if you use good decoupling of the supply line and a decent layout.
In addition to quickly draining a small 9V battery, as has been said, a small 9V battery also has a relatively high output resistance (ESR) which can cause the amplifier to be unstable. A 1,000uF or greater capacitor across the supply line will help but you really need a solid supply line.
No problem PN.Thank you very much spec
I haven't got 1000uF or greater capacitor (I have only 2x 2200uF capacitors already used in this little project), however I believe that I can use 4x 220uF electrolytics capacitors in parallel placed between +Vs (positive pole of capacitors) and ground (negative pole of capacitors)... just for test, after I'll buy a little power supply... about the fact that I should create a "decent layout", well, I can't ensure nothing (I'm just a noob...)
Excuse me, I forgot a "little" thing...
I have a set of resistors rated 1/4W, probably those will not burn (I just found an article on a blog that says so), but how can I predict that?
V=R*I
P=V*I=R*I^2=V^2/R
But I don't know V or I in the circuit, because TDA2005 works as a black-box for me...
Actually, the peak voltage will be 6 V, not 12, so the peak current is 1.5 A (assuming 0 V output stage Vcc and GND headroom).Besides, assuming that you have a 12V battery and a 4 Ohm speaker, the peak current would be, 12V/4 Ohms = 3A and the average current of a sine wave (audio signals comprise sine waves) is 0.707 * peak current.
Actually, the peak voltage will be 6 V, not 12, so the peak current is 1.5 A (assuming 0 V output stage Vcc and GND headroom).
Separate from that, according to the data sheet page 9 the output transistors Vcesat (saturation voltage) is 2.0 V max. each, and the peak-to-peak output voltage for a 12 V supply is 8 V. This is 4 V peak audio voltage, not 12.
ak
Thanks AG, another good observation.Actually if you nit pick you will find that with a 12V supply the peak output voltage is less than 6V and is even a little less than 5V.
I was also going to say the peak current is not 3A but Spec got the total battery current correct since the amplifier is class-AB and makes as much heat as its output power.
I've just tried the circuit on breadboard (I'm quite busy these weeks...) and, as you said, the result was not so good!
The output volume was really low (I tested with 9v and 12v batteries), also with "input volume" really high (TDA2005 didn't heat at all... probably voltage/current to it was not sufficient and/or enough stable).
The quality was inaccettable, you can think as that as a recording of a concert with a smartphone...
But I'm happy that something sounded on speakers, means, I hope, that I'm on the right road. After all, you've already warned me that on breadboard results wil not be great. And this is my first real, little, project with electronics...
Now I'll try to find a power supply and in the meantime I'll draw the circuit on fritzing, for example, to understand how displace components on perfboard...
It will be an "ugly circuit", I already know... but I hope that, at least, It'll play well. I'm just learning
Yes spec!Are both channels of the amplifier performing in the same way?
Multimeter writes R2 = 1182 ohms, R3 = 3.7 ohms (R3 tolerance:gold, but seems outside 5% range... )Use a multimeter to confirm that R2 is 1200 ohms and R3 is 3.3 ohms
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