TCM, I am curious, if you leave a 15V/.5A charge on a battery for days, will that not end up just fully charging the battery?
Then there is the float thing. Some reading indicates this needs done or your battery is not fully charged. Then others refer to this as a "maint charge" only to sustain the battery and can be put to use otherwise. I see lots of reading that talk it up about the "perfect charge", but even if you hit that magical 100.0001% charge, that is going to the crapper as soon as you use it! Then there is self discharge anyway, so at some point, you gotta go with it.
Hmm, you mention a really good point regarding Dc voltage vs ripple. I will now drag out my good meter and look at this.
Two questions I have at the moment
1. Can it be generally accepted that if a battery holds a charge at 12.6-12.7V, it is considered charged?
2. What is the best plan for desulfation? This seems all over the map from "not a good idea, could damage batt", to "the best thing since sliced cheese".
3. Regarding desulfation, are there several ways to skin this? Seems there is med V pushing (16-18V), high voltage pulsing (60V), and std V/high freq. I am sure everyone feels theirs is better, leaving me wondering how they quantify that and if all methods likely work about the same?
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Sulfated batteries are mostly the result of being left in an Under Charged state for long periods of time.
Not a usual thing to happen for a car battery as it is being used and charged mostly everyday.
But common for equipment that is only used in the summer, but than left unused all winter, like Farm Tractors or RV's...
No, because I keep a float charger on them. The float charger prevents self-discharge, but does not prevent the electrolyte from stratifying, hence the need for both floating, and periodically equalizing little-used batteries...All Lead Acid Batteries Self Discharge, Even the ones in my normal Room Temperature shop.
So isn't your batteries losing 15% of there charge each Month, Resulting in Being left Undercharged?
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