Hi There,
I've recently had a Control4 (https://capaletydigitalmedia.com/docs/WirelessAdaptivePhaseDimmer-InstallationGuide.pdf) smart lighting system installed in my 100 year old house. The house does not have a neutral wired to the switches and it will be too expensive to change that.
The dimmer switches can be wired without neutral, but they apparently suck power directly from the load to power their microprocessor. This means that the lights are noticeably dimmer and make a humming sound.
To compensate for the dimness (and to be more energy efficient), I am trying to use LED bulbs. Technically, this is not supported by the switch (without a neutral) because, to steal the power from the load, they need a certain amount of current passing through at all times and they take advantage of the fact that incandescent bulbs allow a low level of current to pass through without creating any light. LEDs require a minimum amount of power before they pass any current.
I have a workaround, but it needs to be improved. If I put in a 10kohm, 5w resistor, in parallel with the bulbs, it allows enough current through that the switch does not freak out. The only problem is, when the lights switch is turned all the way up, the resistor gets hot and I'd like this to be safe enough to install in a lighting junction box.
First question: When the lights are on, is the 1.44 watts generating enough heat to be dangerous if installed in the junction box?
Second question: Is there a better way to trickle some power through - this only needs to be when the switch is "off"? Once the LEDs are on, at any level, the switch can steal power from the current flowing through them.
Third question: Is there an easy circuit that will allow the power through when the the switch is off, but not once the power increases?
Thank you so much!!
-Zach
I've recently had a Control4 (https://capaletydigitalmedia.com/docs/WirelessAdaptivePhaseDimmer-InstallationGuide.pdf) smart lighting system installed in my 100 year old house. The house does not have a neutral wired to the switches and it will be too expensive to change that.
The dimmer switches can be wired without neutral, but they apparently suck power directly from the load to power their microprocessor. This means that the lights are noticeably dimmer and make a humming sound.
To compensate for the dimness (and to be more energy efficient), I am trying to use LED bulbs. Technically, this is not supported by the switch (without a neutral) because, to steal the power from the load, they need a certain amount of current passing through at all times and they take advantage of the fact that incandescent bulbs allow a low level of current to pass through without creating any light. LEDs require a minimum amount of power before they pass any current.
I have a workaround, but it needs to be improved. If I put in a 10kohm, 5w resistor, in parallel with the bulbs, it allows enough current through that the switch does not freak out. The only problem is, when the lights switch is turned all the way up, the resistor gets hot and I'd like this to be safe enough to install in a lighting junction box.
First question: When the lights are on, is the 1.44 watts generating enough heat to be dangerous if installed in the junction box?
Second question: Is there a better way to trickle some power through - this only needs to be when the switch is "off"? Once the LEDs are on, at any level, the switch can steal power from the current flowing through them.
Third question: Is there an easy circuit that will allow the power through when the the switch is off, but not once the power increases?
Thank you so much!!
-Zach