Sorry but I disagree, it's fairly common for components not to be rated to two absolute maximum ratings simultaneously because it exceeds another maximum rating.When some of the features of a component do not work above a certain voltage I call that exceeding the manufacturers recommended maximums.
Check the absolute maximum voltage rating of the fan, it will probably be good up to 60VDC.Okay, I'm at work now, here's the exact transformer I have:
Primary: 117V
Sec 1: 18V
Sec 2: 18V
Sec 3: 8.9V
(18+18) * 1.4 ≈ 50.4VDC
Oddly, the first and second secondaries don't seem to share a center tap (poking with an ohmmeter); it seems they're two completely different windings.
Great but don't forget the connect the 0V of the 12V supply to the 0V of the 50V supply.The thing I particularly like about this transformer though, is that it has a third secondary winding that puts out 8.9V, or about 12.46VDC rectified and filtered, so that takes care of my low-voltage supply.
Check the absolute maximum voltage rating of the fan, it will probably be good up to 60VDC.
Great but don't forget the connect the 0V of the 12V supply to the 0V of the 50V supply.
According to the datasheet you linked, it's good for up to 56V.The **broken link removed** has an operating voltage range of 28.0V to 53.0V, but I'd still like to regulate it to 48 if I can.
The input needs to be 3V> than the output to ensure good regulation.If I'm understanding things correctly... would I use R1=240Ω and R2=9KΩ with the ~50V input to get a regulated 48V out?
No, you need a heatsink.Also, since the LM317 would be dissipating ≤2W of energy, it should be fine with its built-in heatsink, correct? I may put a small snap-on heatsink on it as well, but just want to make sure I've got things in the right perspective.
Yes.I assume I should connect the grounds post-rectification (that is, connect on the DC side of things) right?
According to the datasheet you linked, it's good for up to 56V.
Is 38V across both secondariness the measured voltage or the voltage rating?
If it's the voltage rating then you're sensible regulating because the voltage will be 10% to 20% higher under light loads.
If it's the measured voltage then a regulator is probably not needed.
The input needs to be 3V> than the output to ensure good regulation.
The diodes will drop 1.4V
38√2 = 53.74V - 1.4 = 52.34.
The minimum input voltage for the regulator to regulate properly is:
52.34 - 3 = 49.34V
39.9√2 = 56.43V - 1.4 = 55.03
Thus, the maximum allowable ripple on the filter capacitor is:
55.03 - 48 = 7.03V
Vr is the maximum ripple, I is the current and F is the mains frequency, assuming 60Hz mains frequency:
[latex] C = \frac{1}{2 \times 60 \times 7.03} = 0.00119 = 1200 \mu F[/latex]
(assuming a generous current draw of 1A)
The trouble is the voltage will go down when a load is applied.Well if you add even 5%, the numbers should change as follows, right?
Yes, if the input voltage is higher, you'll need a larger heatsink to get rid of more heat.Of course all this means I'll need a bigger heatsink, won't it?
Yes, diodes will work but not as well as a voltage regulator, you might even get away with a resistor.Another thought; since I don't need the 48V terribly well-regulated, what if I just used some diodes to drop it? I've got some at work that I think drop ~1.5V apiece. Three in series would drop 4.5V, which should put me at around 47.5-50V, no?
It shoudn't make much difference.Also, what effect, if any, will high frequency PWM have on the filter caps? I've got my PWM tuned for about 40kHz, so the power draw will be cycling very rapidly. I haven't done the math exactly (plus the duty cycle range will depend on the actual values of the resistors and caps, versus ratings) but I should have a range in duty cycle of ~10-90%.
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