You won't need a heatsink if the current is low enough and the input and output voltage are close enough. But you might as well stick a $1 heatsink on it.Application: LED clock
Update: Need a solution with lead-wires. Heat-sink? Noise would be a problem for the automotive project.
... and give up ever using the AM radio in the car again...Just search ebay for a LM2596 adjustable module and set it for 9V or 10V. It should cost no more than US$1 incl postage.
Let me guess, put the LM25XX pcb in a shielded enclosure, with ferrite common-mode filters on both the input wires and output wires including filter capacitors? That is about the minimum that it takes to quiet those things down... Been there, had to do that....its all down to the job being done right.
Electronics installed in automobiles at the factory is tested for RFI and must meet rigid standards. I'm off to breakfast with the guy that used to do the certification for Ford in Detroit...Mike at first I thought the enclosure was just plastic, after seeing inside a injector control module yes its metalized for screening, and there was what looked like some Emi filtering stuff, vehicle manufacturers probably have to conform to a load of rules.
I have the same with FM radio. In my 5 series, my USB adaptor obliterates all but the strongest stations. The only one that does not cause a problem is the dual USB metal canned adaptor. That works perfectly - keeps the noise internalI have a dual lighter socket to usb converter and if I charge my phone with it I can't listen to am radio in weak signal areas.
I have dealt with this issue running 14Vdc input to 5Vdc USB adapters in various airplanes. There the RFI is a bit more critical than just not being able to listen to music....I have the same with FM radio. In my 5 series, my USB adaptor obliterates all but the strongest stations. The only one that does not cause a problem is the dual USB metal canned adaptor. That works perfectly - keeps the noise internal