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  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

Is the circuit fried?

Serioxsinho

New Member
Hi, my mouse clicks were faulting a lot, since I had a spare one, I decided to buy new switches/clickers and replace it.

First time desolding things and didn't know that for solder through hole you need to add solder to make it easier. So I asume I put to much heat forcing the tip inside the hole and mesed up.

Right click works fine after replacement, left click doens't work at all even if I tried to jumper it.

I removed the component for the pictures.

bcb49617-bd00-4c88-8407-f41a07ab32a8.jpgcb8d20bd-a255-4707-b91b-06637b4b7829.jpg

I would like to know if there's something I can test/do to revive it since in my country the prices are skyrocketing from elections+inflation and is a $5 vs $150 solution.
 
If you can follow the PCB connection tracks from the switch pads, you can use very thin insulated wire to add jumpers from the switch pins to the next available solder point along the trace - or carefully scrape off the solder resist on the track near to the switch pad and use thin bare copper wire to bridge the broken part & solder to the good track.
 
If you can follow the PCB connection tracks from the switch pads, you can use very thin insulated wire to add jumpers from the switch pins to the next available solder point along the trace - or carefully scrape off the solder resist on the track near to the switch pad and use thin bare copper wire to bridge the broken part & solder to the good track.
Tonight I'm going to test your suggestions. Didn't have time (sleep depraved + ton of work)
 
Green corrosion means that the copper was affected.
But in your situation, as a last attempt you may attempt to re-solder the pins with fresh solder AND flux.
Thoroughly clean afterwards.
 

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