This circuit features automatic Exit and Entry delays and a timed Bell Cut-off. It has provision for both normally-closed and normally-open contacts, and a 24-hour Personal Attack/Tamper zone. It is connected permanently to the 12-volt supply and its operation is "enabled" by opening SW1. By using the expansion modules, you can add as many zones as you require; some or all of which may be the inertia (shock) sensor type. All the green LEDs should be lighting before you open SW1. You then have up to about a minute to leave the building. As you do so, the Buzzer will sound. It should stop sounding when you shut the door behind you. This indicates that the Exit/Entry loop has been successfully restored within the time allowed. When you re-enter the building you have up to about a minute to move SW1 to the off position. If SW1 is not switched off in time, the relay will energise and sound the main bell. It will ring for up to about 40 minutes. But it can be turned off at any time by SW1. The "Instant" zone has no Entry Delay. If you don't want to use N/O switches, leave out R8, C8 and Q2; and fit a link between Led 3 and C7. The 24 Hour PA/Tamper protection is provided by the SCR/Thyristor. If any of the switches in the N/C loop is opened, R11 will trigger the SCR and the bell will ring. In this case the bell has no time limit. Once the loop is closed again, the SCR may be reset by pressing SW2 and temporarily interrupting the current flow. The basic circuit will be satisfactory in many situations. However, it's much easier to find a fault when the alarm is divided into zones and the control panel can remember which zone has caused the activation. The expansion modules are designed to do this. Although they will work with the existing instant zone, they are intended to replace it. When a zone is activated, its red LED will light and remain lit until the reset button is pressed. All the modules can share a single reset button. The Stripboard layout of the prototype is available.

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i think my jaw just hit the floor, how much would something like this cost to make?, parts etc.

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how is the alarm activated and de-activated???

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interesting project - probably not that costly to build. I bet the relay costs the lion's share.

One the NC contacts - I would design them to have a 10K resistor in parallel at the sensor and set off the alarm or refuse to arm if you don't see the resistance. A simple divider allows that. this prevents some one from cutting or shorting the wire. same for the NO contacts.

 

Here is a link to the rest of the support material for this modular alarm system including:

1 Circuit Description
2 Power Supply
3 Parts List
4 Veroboard Layout
5 Construction Guide
6 External Connections
7........

http://uk.geocities.com/ronj_1217/mba_support.html

I hope this helps anyone intent on building this.

 

sir can you build a burglar alarm consisting a transitor

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wot iz tranziztor?

i dont undorstond.

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Perhaps this link will explain.
http://icanhascheezburger.com/

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Lol, this made my day a bit better.

 

This question was also quite funny.

Lead Acid Battery Charger Help Request

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This morning I woke up to the sound of keys turning in my door lock. Then I heard doors opening in my house and footsteps, but by the time I got out of my room I heard the entrance door closing. Then I saw that the lock was broken in two. I notified the police, of course. I just never thought that this could happen to me. I live in an apartment at the 3rd floor in a 6 story building. The entrance door is made of thick wood, and only has one key lock, no other locks. No alarms, no camera. I have a bad feeling that the burglars might return again in a few days. A metal door AND a metal door frame are both good ideas. Also, there is a type of lock that's been around for a very long time. It's manufactured by Medeco (and others?) and any decent locksmith can install it for you. It takes special equipment to copy and it's unlikely that a common burglar would bother with your apartment if he came across this type of lock.

 

I could probably make this out of parts in my junk drawer, except for the "ineritia sensor" What is that?

 

About $5.00 if I bought all the parts new, but even a half-assed parts drawer should have most of these parts.

ELECTROMASTER...
Great circuit, well designed, and an excellent easy-to-read schematic, and a practical project to boot.
Excellent newbies circuit.