Well I am back at it after many months off from being able to play around with my wind power stuff. The weather warmed up this last week and was favorable enough to be able to work outside and up high without freezing or being blown a way.
This is my latest homemade wind generator that is once again made from old parts I had around the farm. The main frame is the same one I have been using for 9 years now but the blade and generator system that goes on it has been through a number of redesigns over the years.
This time I have set up with a 9.5 foot rotor, my biggest set yet so far, running on an old commercial inline gearbox that gives it a 16.5:1 speed increase from the rotor to the modified 28 volt 100 amp Leese Neville commercial alternator.
The gearbox is rated for around 8 - 10 HP at the speeds I will be running it at so its unlikely it will have problems. Plus I have full synthetic oil in it so it is not stiff at cold temps. The alternator is a modified Leese Neville 28 volt 100 amp unit that I changed the winding configurations from a double Delta 28 volt output to a single Wye output that gives me 100 volts at 28 amps so it basically just a reverse of the voltage and amperage numbers. This is also a heavy duty high duty cycle rated alternator so it will be able to run for long periods at the top of its output range without burning up.
This alternator is rated for full output at 3600 RPM or higher which in this aplication will be at a rotor speed of around 218 RPM which is about half what the actual blades are rated for. Given the overall system efficiencies the rotor will have to produce over 3 KW mechanical power at that 218 RPM to exceed the alternators minimum full output design capacity which should limit runaways in high winds this time hopefully.
I removed the stock regulator and am now just using a pair of 150 watt bulbs in parallel as a current limiter for the field coils. By doing so the two bulbs have a resistance of about 4 ohms cold and the rotor field coils are about 7 ohms cold which gives me a low speed self exciting ability but then limits the field power proportionally to the output afterward.
When hot the field coils are roughly 10 ohms and need 2.5 amps of current for full saturation. This works well being the alternator should top out at around 160 - 170 volts giving me a roughly 25 volt field voltage and a 140 - 150 voltage drop across the bulbs which are 130 volt rated.
The bulbs are 20K hour rated commercial bulbs that have heavy filaments and have shown that they can take far higher voltages for long periods of time without burnouts too. I tested one a while back at 170 volts for over an hour without it burning out.
Eventually I will have a SMPS that drives the field power at a constant 24 volts when ever the alternators output voltage is high enough but for now the light bulb shunt method will just have to do.
Now I am just waiting for some wind and hopefully this one lasts more than a few weeks before a blade comes apart.






This is my latest homemade wind generator that is once again made from old parts I had around the farm. The main frame is the same one I have been using for 9 years now but the blade and generator system that goes on it has been through a number of redesigns over the years.
This time I have set up with a 9.5 foot rotor, my biggest set yet so far, running on an old commercial inline gearbox that gives it a 16.5:1 speed increase from the rotor to the modified 28 volt 100 amp Leese Neville commercial alternator.
The gearbox is rated for around 8 - 10 HP at the speeds I will be running it at so its unlikely it will have problems. Plus I have full synthetic oil in it so it is not stiff at cold temps. The alternator is a modified Leese Neville 28 volt 100 amp unit that I changed the winding configurations from a double Delta 28 volt output to a single Wye output that gives me 100 volts at 28 amps so it basically just a reverse of the voltage and amperage numbers. This is also a heavy duty high duty cycle rated alternator so it will be able to run for long periods at the top of its output range without burning up.
This alternator is rated for full output at 3600 RPM or higher which in this aplication will be at a rotor speed of around 218 RPM which is about half what the actual blades are rated for. Given the overall system efficiencies the rotor will have to produce over 3 KW mechanical power at that 218 RPM to exceed the alternators minimum full output design capacity which should limit runaways in high winds this time hopefully.
I removed the stock regulator and am now just using a pair of 150 watt bulbs in parallel as a current limiter for the field coils. By doing so the two bulbs have a resistance of about 4 ohms cold and the rotor field coils are about 7 ohms cold which gives me a low speed self exciting ability but then limits the field power proportionally to the output afterward.
When hot the field coils are roughly 10 ohms and need 2.5 amps of current for full saturation. This works well being the alternator should top out at around 160 - 170 volts giving me a roughly 25 volt field voltage and a 140 - 150 voltage drop across the bulbs which are 130 volt rated.
The bulbs are 20K hour rated commercial bulbs that have heavy filaments and have shown that they can take far higher voltages for long periods of time without burnouts too. I tested one a while back at 170 volts for over an hour without it burning out.
Eventually I will have a SMPS that drives the field power at a constant 24 volts when ever the alternators output voltage is high enough but for now the light bulb shunt method will just have to do.
Now I am just waiting for some wind and hopefully this one lasts more than a few weeks before a blade comes apart.





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