Where can I buy a powerful laser?

Sodium Chlorate a little sugar...Job done. Mix enough and you get sawdust

Little Ghostman said:

Sodium Chlorate a little sugar...Job done. Mix enough and you get sawdust

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I also made explosives and rocket fuel when I was young. The explosives flew very high and the rockets all blew up! I am lucky to still have my fingers.

The simplest and cheapest method of removing limbs of of a tall tree that I know of is to pass a small steel cable over the limb and work it back and forth.

A ~3/32" aircraft grade steel cable (~900 pounds tensile strength) with 10 - 15 pounds of weight hanging over a tree limb and moved back and forth by pulling on the end opposite the hanging weight makes for a very effective saw.

As for getting it up over the limb either use a bow and arrow to shoot a stringline over the limb or tie a string to a rock and toss it over then use the stringline to pull the steel cable into place.

Once it's up there and the weight is attached just keep going back and forth as far as the cable line will allow on each stroke!

The step and hinge method with wedges is safest for accurate placement of falling trunks with a chainsaw. Just make sure its done right with no kickback at base.

Collatoral damage can be a risk. Insurance claims may not work then. But then if you drop one on a power line,, it may get fixed more promptly

Actually, I had not seen a large tree felled by sawing on the side to which it was intended to fall. Down here in the states, we usually make a notch and then make a felling cut on the side opposite the hoped for direction of fall. There is some disagreement on whether the felling cut should be horizontal or at a downward angle to the notch. The major problem with cutting on the side that the tree will fall towards is that a little movement of the tree may grab the saw. Then, unless you have another saw, you are stuck.

John

@jpanhalt< actually that is the principle of the Step and hinge. leeward side has a 80% wide steep downward cut then a 20% deep horizontal cut in falling direction.

then the step cut on yhe back starts 1 " behind the step going thru the middle so that it wont bind as the trunk supports itself on either side. then is cut towards the rear on one side ,

then a wedge is driven in , next then sawe completes the ccut from the middle other side and before finishing the wedge (s) are driven deeper.

When the back edge cut is finished last from oth other side, this layer is a step above the lower cut and the 1" between becomes the hinge to fall in the direction of the lower step with back leverage .

If imbalanced then heavy wire or winch from treetop is needed to bias the base so the emitter goes in the right direction.

Cutting from the rear perimeter is asking for the saw to bind. That's why it is done with an inserted horizontal slot on the rear upper step with leverage from a hard density plastic wedge.

Step and hinge