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Vero layout for 18F26K22

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Nigel Goodwin

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I thought I'd post this, as others might find it useful?. As we've been discussing LCD/TFT usage with PIC's in the Oshonsoft Forum, and the 18F series seemed to be popular, I've ordered a couple of 18F26K22's (chosen for their 28 pin S-DIP package and large memory), so have designed a layout using my standard tutorial board system with ten pin molex connectors. As I'm likely to be playing with 3.3V displays, I've added both 5V and 3.3V regulators, with a link to choose which voltage you want - which saves messing around with level shifters to the display.

Anyway, I've got the board built, plus a connection board for the display (ILI9341), and I'm just waiting for the chips to turn up - I'm 'hoping' they will arrive today, as they were sent via UPS this morning. Basically I'm typing this while keeping on IP camera, that I've stuck in the front bedroom window, so I can see if a van arrives :D

18FBoard.png
 
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Ian Rogers

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Basically I'm typing this while keeping on IP camera, that I've stuck n tnhe front bedroom window, so I can see if a van arrives :D
You sound like a kid on xmas eve!!!! What software do you use for schematics, or do you draw manually??
 

Nigel Goodwin

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You sound like a kid on xmas eve!!!! What software do you use for schematics, or do you draw manually??
I use Lochmaster for the Vero layouts, and SPlan for circuits.

I hate waiting for parcels to arrive - which it hasn't today :(

But basically I was playing with the camera, just because I could :D
 

granddad

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Long live Vero... I've been trying out these Velman IC layout boards, 28 pin IC is a bit of a fiddle as the busses run every 8 strips ( 16 pin ICs ) ,full size a bit big but cut in 1/2 just right....
velbd.jpg
 

Rich D.

Active Member
I reluctantly use those kinds of boards also. But they make me suffer in many ways. Most notably,
1) there's no good places to put a dual-row post header to connect > 8-wide ribbon cables.
2) The groups of 3 holes are too small for me. A standard DIP covers one hole, so one side of the chip has only one extra hole for wiring. Of course it usually takes 2 holes on any pin to daisy-chain a circuit, so that means a lot more wires have to be used to wire one side of an IC. If there was one area that allows for some longer and/or wider chips it would help a lot.
I would make my own and sell them but with my marketing skills I'd end up using boxes of these boards for furniture.
 

jpanhalt

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Rich D.
I buy mainly two types of boards:

1) One for circuits and such has plated through holes and is laid out pretty much like the standard solderless breadboard. I have a few really cheap ones that have copper on one side and no plated through holes. They work OK, but are slightly more difficult to use.
2) The other type is double sided with all holes (not plated through) on 0.1 centers. They work for passive filters and some RF stuff because of the inherent ground plane. They are a little harder to find, but a saw kerf isolates nice copper areas for attaching components.

I also have vero boards like Nigel shows, but I have never been very fond of them.

John
 

be80be

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I love the stuff years ago I got some double sided boards that was great cant find them no more.
 

Ian Rogers

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I also have vero boards like Nigel shows, but I have never been very fond of them.
The trick to these is they need cleaning before use... Every time I use veroboard I have to spit shine them up... Then cut tracks that are excessive.. Then they behave...
 

Nigel Goodwin

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The trick to these is they need cleaning before use... Every time I use veroboard I have to spit shine them up... Then cut tracks that are excessive.. Then they behave...
I can't say I've ever found any need to clean them, but it's always advantageous to make tracks as short as possible.

Here's a further board I made this week, an TFT/LCD board for the 18F series - while it's designed for the ILI9341, it will also directly accept a number of ST7735 boards, or a even a 5110 (as long as you have the correct type). And because the 24F series have configurable peripheral pins you can also use it with that as well, just reconfigure the pins to be the same as the 18F. The extra little socket at the right accepts the other side pins of a 5110, or provides support for a larger display.

18F_LCD.png
 

Ian Rogers

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I can't say I've ever found any need to clean them
You keep them in the cellophane until needed. I, on the other hand, have 10 at a time, so the copper blackens over time... If I try and solder... Dry joints all over the place...
 

ericgibbs

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hi,
I find that Duraglit wadding gets the dirty tracks clean.

Nigel Goodwin
Assembled/wired the TFT lcd/Arduino UNO, downloaded the program from your link, will give it go.
E
 

jpanhalt

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Soldering has not been the problem. Probably the greatest detractor for me is the absence of plated holes. Also, I have a system based on Eagle that gives me schematic capture. Here's a snippet:
upload_2017-11-1_6-52-51.png

Sorry about the quality of the picture. You can probably imagine that it is a template of a standard breadboard on a 0.1" grid. The grid on my screen is barely visible. I do the schematic in Eagle in the usual way. Eagle ensures I have all the connections needed, but not the breaks (shown by short dashes). The "X" marks a pin location on the ICSP header that is not filled ("aux" location). It helps keep me from plugging it in reversed. Dots are unused pins. I then route on the top and solder on the bottom like this:
upload_2017-11-1_7-5-44.png

The snippet is the same section that is in the board layout above.

I looked up Lochmaster after Nigel mentioned it and noticed that it has some sort of connection checker. I was not aware of that, but to me it is a big plus as my mind is becoming like the inside of a pumpkin. If that acts like schematic capture, I will probably try it.

John
 

Nigel Goodwin

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You keep them in the cellophane until needed. I, on the other hand, have 10 at a time, so the copper blackens over time... If I try and solder... Dry joints all over the place...
You mean I treat mine with loving care? :D

I do leave them wrapped until use, but once I've opened it (and I use the larger sheets and cut them down) it's then subject to the air.

I've now (eventually!!) sorted out my TFT problems, where only the 128x128 one would work with my 24F board - as the 240x320 worked fine with the 18F board, I carefully examined the SPI settings of the 18F program while studying the datasheets, and found I'd got SMP and CKE set the opposite way, reversing those cured all my problems :D

I look forward to hearing how you get on Eric.
 
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