Use Automatic Water Level Controller with Mini Water Pump

Yes, that's the simplest method. Or you could use a short extension lead & cut that to connect to the controller, rather than cutting the pump wire.
If that is a three core cable, link the ground through, or just take a few inches of outer jacket off the cable carefully & only cut live & neutral to go to the terminals.

Try and keep the live (hot) wire on the outer terminals - whoever made the diagram got L & N swapped the coloured wires at the 110V input!

It should really go in an enclosure of some sort such as a plastic project box or plastic junction box, so there is no possibility of anything (or anyone / children / pets) touching the terminals.

PaulsProjects said:

Hi Folks,
I'm a real newbie with electronics and need some advice/guidance.
I'm looking to create a water feature for my new lizard terrarium that will fill a small tray with water using an AC 110V 3W mini water pump.
The pump will be attached to an electronic timer but I also want to prevent overflow by using the following automatic water level controller from Amazon.

View attachment 149307​

View attachment 149308

Here is the mini water pump:
View attachment 149309
My question is how do I take my water pump's power cord and make it work with the water level controller?
Would I basically cut the power cord in half and splice the ends from the power source and attach to the controller where it says INPUT and attach the other end that leads to the pump to where it says output? I've never done this before and would appreciate any guidance.
Thanks so much!

Click to expand...

You can either cut the pump's cord as you described, or, you can locate a small extension cord and cut the plug end off of it (leaving the outlet end attached to the longer cord). Then connect the section of extension cord to your box and then plug your pump into the section of extension cord.

rjenkinsgb said:

Yes, that's the simplest method. Or you could use a short extension lead & cut that to connect to the controller, rather than cutting the pump wire.
If that is a three core cable, link the ground through, or just take a few inches of outer jacket off the cable carefully & only cut live & neutral to go to the terminals.

Try and keep the live (hot) wire on the outer terminals - whoever made the diagram got L & N swapped the coloured wires at the 110V input!

It should really go in an enclosure of some sort such as a plastic project box or plastic junction box, so there is no possibility of anything (or anyone / children / pets) touching the terminals.

Click to expand...

Excellent, thanks for your response and advice!

ZipZapOuch said:

You can either cut the pump's cord as you described, or, you can locate a small extension cord and cut the plug end off of it (leaving the outlet end attached to the longer cord). Then connect the section of extension cord to your box and then plug your pump into the section of extension cord.

Click to expand...

Yes, I think extension cord is the way to go. Thanks for your advice!

Buy a box of fork connectors so you reduce the risk of the stranded wires not completely captured by the screws and possibly shorting out.


And, as rjenkinsgb mentioned, the AC power is not well protected from you or any curious fingers so you need to put this in safely designed, Chinese made, device into a larger enclosure or somehow block the screw terminals so you don't accidentally kill yourself when you pick it up.

Also, use a short section of extension cord for the jumper wires shown in the image from the supplier. Finally, don't forget polarity. Eventhough it is AC, one side is "neutral" and one is live. The wire on your extension cord will be marked with a printed line or with ribs molded into the insulation.

Lastly, heed rjenkinsgb warning that the wires in the vendor's instructions are mislabeled in one image.

ZipZapOuch said:

Buy a box of fork connectors so you reduce the risk of the stranded wires not completely captured by the screws and possibly shorting out.

#8 (22-18) Fork Spade Lug Crimp Terminal 50 Pcs.

#8 (22-18) Fork Spade Lug Crimp Terminal 50 Pcs.Express Crimp terminals and splices are manufactured to meet if not exceed the standards of the National Electrical Manufacturer's Association (NEMA), American, Canadian and international test requirements. Constructed of the highest quality...

www.parts-express.com

And, as rjenkinsgb mentioned, the AC power is not well protected from you or any curious fingers so you need to put this in safely designed, Chinese made, device into a larger enclosure or somehow block the screw terminals so you don't accidentally kill yourself when you pick it up.

Also, use a short section of extension cord for the jumper wires shown in the image from the supplier. Finally, don't forget polarity. Eventhough it is AC, one side is "neutral" and one is live. The wire on your extension cord will be marked with a printed line or with ribs molded into the insulation.

Lastly, heed rjenkinsgb warning that the wires in the vendor's instructions are mislabeled in one image.

Click to expand...

Wow, I was actually thinking (to a much less informed degree) a similar thing regarding the precarious nature of the wires and if there was a better way to attach these to the controller. I will definitely try the Fork Spade Lug Crimps, thanks. I remember seeing those at Lowes the other day. Wow, I actually got a little scared (probably a good thing) with your warning about enclosing the screw terminals. I will do that, thanks. For the connections from (C) to (D) and (E) I cut of and used some of the blue wire from the three sensors and it seems to be working. Honestly I don't understand what the blue wire sensor is even for or why we need the connections from C to D and E. It's probably something to do with the three modes of operation. I know the red sensor is the high water level sensor and the black sensor is the low level sensor.