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Torin Fan Deck Wiring

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willeng

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I purchased a Torin Fan Deck 240v 50hz 655W OUT--Blower from a salvage yard in near new order.

The electric motor is of four speed design Lo, Med Lo, Med High & High, It came without the speed selection switch which I don't need as I want to run it on High all the time.

I have attached a wiring diagram of the newer 3 speed model which is 600W OUT & the same thing except 3 speed instead of 4 speed.

The high setting on mine uses the Brown wire for High so I wired the three pin mains plug accordingly & tested the blower.

It seems to labour & the speed of the motor varies & appears as if it is overloaded & gets hot.
I then dismantled the unit & checked the bearings & the stator windings etc & everything is in perfect condition so I assembled it again & run the motor with (no load) & it runs good with no variation in speed.
I assembled it into the unit with just 1 fan wheel & gave it a run & again it is good with the motor getting just warm as expected.
With the second fan wheel attached (full load) the same problem occurs, the rpm varies & the motor gets hot.

I thought that each individual stator tap was selected with the speed selection switch, so I wired the Brown wire to Active but it seems to lack the power to drive both fan wheels.

You don't have to energise all the stator taps to run on high do you, I thought they would be with just the single brown wire, the (High Setting) but maybe I am wrong?
Didn't seem correct to do this so I thought I had better ask.

Forgot to add that the mains supply is good enough for heavy welding so shouldn't be an issue.

Cheers
 

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Presumably you do have a start-and-run capacitor (which I infer is needed from the '1ph CSR' marking on your pic) connected?
 
alec_t,

Thanks for the reply, yes the start & run cap is installed, I also tested the cap as well.
Not sure what is going wrong?
It runs perfectly with just one Fan Wheel but with the two as designed it doesn't run correctly?

Thanks
 
I emailed the agent about this model fan deck, they said the start run cap should be 450v .2uF for this motor, it has a 450v 1uF installed & is how I bought it.
How critical is the value of this capacitor?
Would this cause the issue I am having, it seems unlikely but I am not sure.

I don't have a .2uF on hand to try.

If it in fact does have an impact on the performance could someone explain why?

Thanks
 
After thinking about this issue it became obvious that the power factor of the motor was the problem, the agent for the deck fans told me to use a 0.2uF Start run Cap but when I thought about it I realised that these cheap asian motors would not have a power factor figure that good to use a cap that small for correction.

I don't have a Watt meter but do have an Amp Meter so I checked it out & sure enough with the 1uF capacitor that was installed it was drawing to much current making it run hot, presumably due to the current lagging ( Poor Power factor).
So I carefully kept increasing the capacitor value to 4uF, 12uF & then 20uF & each time the test showed a drop in current draw & with the 20uF capacitor it draws 4.55Amps which is the motors rated maximum current draw so I left it at that & it is working perfectly.

To do the Power Factor calculations I have read that you require a Watt meter to get P (True Power), can you just use the motors maximum rated figures for this instead of a Watt Meter.
Eg:
In this case 240v * 4.55A = 1.092kW & use this figure for the True Power figure in the calculation.
Without a Start & Run capacitor the Apparent Power was 240v * 6.5A = 1.56kVA
I know how to draw the Power Triangle etc but was wondering if using the motors max rating was good enough for the True Power figure?

Cheers
 
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