you could use a current transformer around the main wire to monitor the current draw, and if your controller was set to a max current (including the swimming pool), then it would automatically back off the heater when other loads were being drawn.
Routing the water to a heat exchanger to the main engine cooling water would save fuel. It still needs a thermostat. I've seen a system like that with a pool that got way too hot because the thermostat was installed incorrectly.
With that approach you are in danger of getting oscillation. If the current draw is less than the maximum, and the tank heater takes it over the maximum, then as soon as the heater turns on, the current goes over the maximum, and the heater gets turned off.
I suppose there's no chance you could route some of the engine cooling water to a heat exchanger in the tank?
Out of curiosity, may I know what a "retention tank" is? An equivalent of a "settling tank" for bunkers?
Where the water goes to, after leaving the tank?
I had made the assumption that the control would be on/off control. If you only have on/off control, and the overall current is measured, it will oscillate.wrong again...diver300 said:With that approach you are in danger of getting oscillation. If the current draw is less than the maximum, and the tank heater takes it over the maximum, then as soon as the heater turns on, the current goes over the maximum, and the heater gets turned off.
you monitor total power, including the power you are supplying, for a maximum, and as other loads turn off, you turn your power out up, and as other loads turn on, you turn yours down. This is done all the time in electronics.
I cant answer that yet as I am still waiting on information on the size of the heaters required. I am guessing that there is prob be two 18KW heaters. This is 60Hz, 440v.
Connecting the heaters like that would mean that the control would be non variable. The power control needs to be proportional to the total load current on the distribution board.
He needs proportional control because his concern is about overloading the breakers. On/off control will (momentarily) apply the full load to the breaker, which would rapidly open the breaker if the panel is overloaded.I still don't see why you will need proportional control. Most temperature control of water tanks is on/off. The variation in temperature is generally only slightly more than the hysteresis of the temperature switch.
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He needs proportional control because his concern is about overloading the breakers. On/off control will (momentarily) apply the full load to the breaker, which would rapidly open the breaker if the panel is overloaded.
This is actually a very good idea... so you can't use engine coolant, how about the waste heat from the engines going through the stack?
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