Don't feel bad - I agree 0805's are harder to do than IC's once you get the drag solder method down. One thing I learned is USE A BIGGER TIP. Don't use the fine points - I use a 1.5mm chisel tip for 0805s. It lets you get in, hit it, and get a good joint in about a second. The tip is slightly wider than the part width and about the same as the pad width.
I use the 'bump tack' method
(see here). Put a little bit of solder on one pad before placing the resistor. With tweezers put the resistor in place and heat the pad with the little bit of solder so that one side is tacked down (it will usually be cold b/c the flux burns off when you first applied the solder). This is just a temporary joint to hold the resistor in place.
Then solder the other side of the resistor (which should be a good joint). Then go back and hit the first pad with a little more solder and maybe some liquid flux (I use Kester 951) to make it a good connection since it was likely a cold joint. It takes some practice but I can do it pretty well now.
Tweezers are damned near indispensable for removing things. They really, really do work well. I can depopulate about 3 SMT resistors or caps in about a second (actually, if I was racing, it would be double that), and a single 8SOIC in about one second with no pad damage. Even with fine point tweezers I can do a 28TSSOP package removal, but I have damaged pads trying that.
SOIC's and TSSOP's are still easier though, which is totally contrary to what I or any one else would expect. If you get the initial alignment of the part right it is no problem.
ETA: FWIW I still take longer to solder SMT resistors than I do through hole resistors. They hold themselves in place, it's as simple as that. But I still prefer SMT parts because I have tweezers. Doing removal of through-hole parts is easy enough on single sided boards, but is really difficult to do without a dedicated desoldering gun on two-sided boards with plated through holes. The Soldapult style desoldering pumps just don't cut it on two layer boards, and desoldering guns while much better tend to clog. That's why when I dropped $700 on a station I got an OKi station with tweezers. Rework is now a breeze and I use all SMT parts where I can. If I have to use a DIP part it gets socketed, and if I have to use a leaded part I just cut it out and remove the leftover leads. If it's a really expensive leaded part I'll try and hit both ends with the rework tweezers and pry it out with my normal Erem tweezers.