Continue to Site

Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

single firewire touch switch

Status
Not open for further replies.

abdelrazek

New Member
I want to build a circuit to switch a bulb with wireless switch and also manually with a button.
I have prepared everything except the power supply. The problem is i have no neutral in the wall where the wall switch is. So i need to draw power somehow to feed the 12v receiver and other elements, and also i need to light the bulb. Can someone help me with that?
actually someone talk about this project before but i just want to ask if this possible in this circuit or not and if possible what should i add or remove !
i want to make the same idia of the wall panel rf switch bcz its very expensive..
HTB14L3nJVXXXXbwXFXXq6xXFXXXy.jpg
HTB1iHk_NVXXXXaUaVXXq6xXFXXXY.jpg
HTB1ippJNVXXXXcqaXXXq6xXFXXXK.jpg
 
Link to the manufacturer or the site where you bought this?

ak
 
If there is a ground wire to the switch, you may be able to use it for neutral.
 
Where are you that you have no neutral in your wiring?
No neutral in the switch box is common in old houses, wired before jacketed 12/2 and 14/2 were common. There's a term for one wiring style where line and neutral are individual wires strung through ceramic insulators nailed to the insides of studs, but I can't remember it now. In that way, line goes to the switch, switched-line goes to the ceiling light fixture, and neutral goes directly to the fixture, not through the switch box. I grew up in a house like that, wired in the 20's.

ak
 
Thanks all and sorry for late reply
Actually I don't have natural in my switch box. And I bought the rf switch then I find that I should have natural!!
When I search again I find that another rf switch is using only the fire wire and so I want to upgrade my rf switch to work with only fire wire... Is this possible!
 
Here's the link for two manufacturers
220v 1ch rf wireless remote switch wireless light Lamp LED switch 1 Receiver 2 Transmitter 315/433 Remote ON OFF Controller
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32224348534/32224348534.html
(from AliExpress Android)
Vhome Remote Control EU Standard 220V 1 Gang 1 Way White Crystal Glass Panel Touch Switch With RF 433HZ Remote Control
**broken link removed**
(from AliExpress Android)
 
So i need to draw power somehow to feed the 12v receiver and other elements
If you have access to the 12 volt circuit in this unit and room for a transformer & battery, this may work.
(Use a 12 V. DC transformer & battery.)
Charge thru bulb.jpg


I don't think that circuit is in this book... National Electrical Code (NEC) Softbound, 2017 Edition (hehe)
 
Last edited:
If you have access to the 12 volt circuit in this unit and room for a transformer & battery, this may work.
(Use a 12 V. DC transformer & battery.)
View attachment 103150

I don't think that circuit is in this book... National Electrical Code (NEC) Softbound, 2017 Edition (hehe)

Just adding in something that I've tried before, that transformer config can make CFL bulbs Ballast flicker the coil as it tries to start the inductor, a small, slow strobe effect. If a CFL containing Ballast is used that is.:)
The reference of that book is an point to note btw.
 
Could you not mount the receiver unit in the space between the ceiling and the floor above where you would have access to neutral ? (Or in the loft space if it is the top floor.)

Les.
 
Les Jones makes an agreeable approach to the installation, as the one wire Hot goes to the original flip switch then to the bulb. It would be possible to power the circuit from the flip switch in OFF position all be it with limited current for the Wireless circuit via the type of bulb in use resistance in series to the Neutral wire. However as the one wire would allow some kind of operation, when the switch is turned ON via the relay used in the wireless system, or the original flip switch, this would apply HOT to the bulb and in doing so would cancel out the Common Neutral return for the wireless circuit needed resulting in a blip (light blink) of operation each switch on using the wireless. Meaning at wireless switch on a brief Hot at both inputs to the wireless power transformer shutting down the wireless receiver in doing so.
 
dear MR
Les Jones
thanks for ur help i really appreciate that ,,
my friend Unfortunately i don't have ceiling actually we are fixing the bulbs direct to the concrete floor and if i but my unit inside the lamp that's mean if someone turn of the switch, my RF switch will be useless..
 
I assumed that you had planned on replacing the original switch with the wireless remote. Are you now saing that you want it to work like a two way switch system ? (The way you would wire two single pole chageover switches so that either could switch the light on or off.) If you only want it to work from the wireless remote then The live feed is probably available at the ceiling connection so you could disconnect the wires that go to the existing switch there and replace the switch with a blanking plate. If you want it to work like a two way switch system there are two possible solutions I can think of. The first is not very nice as it would involve a relay that would be powered all the time the existing switch was in one position. You woulf need a relay with single pole changeover contacts and a 230 volt AC coil. This would be mounted on the ceiling with the receiver unit. The wiring would be changed so the existing switch only supplied the relay coil. The relay in the remote receiver also has changeover contacts so you would wire that relay and the extra relay in the same way as a two way switch system. The other solution is to buy an extra remote keyfob. You would remove the existing wiring to the switch and use the switch to simulate pressing the on and off buttons on the keyfob. You would need to trace out the schematic of the keyfob and work out a way of making the switch just pulse the push buttons when it was opperated. (Probably two capacitors and two resistors could be made to do this.) This would require you to remove the switch from time to time to replace the batteries in the keyfob.

Les.
 
**broken link removed** this one same what i want to do,,,,,i want to put my curcit inside the switch box work parallel with it with only single fire wire same this one.
thanx evryone..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest threads

New Articles From Microcontroller Tips

Back
Top