230v AC is actually a waveform that rises to about 345v. The 230v AC is actually called 230v RMS which means "equal to DC." The AC voltage rises to a peak of 345v during part of the waveform and drops to 0v during part of the wave. The current taken during the peak is more than if the appliance was connected to 230v DC and when the voltage drops to below 230v, the current is less than if it were connected to 230v DC. But when you take into account the higher current and lower current over a complete cycle, the answer is exactly the same as if the item was connected to DC.
do you there might be an issue with inductance? The wire will be wound around an insulator with a 3mm diametre and the coils spaced at approx. 4mm apart and a total of 275mm long.
can't give you any specs, but stainless steel aircraft safety tie wire has a fairly high ohms / mil-foot, but probably changes as it gets hotter, but at 100 watts, may be pretty stable. I've used it for a load resistor a couple of times using .032" wire.
Juuuuuust checking =) What are you planning on using for insulation out of curiosity? It has to be liquid tight electrically non conductive and transfer heat well. Most of the heating coils I've seen have nichrome down the middle sealed with some kind of thermal epoxy around a metal coil that is what comes in direct contact with the solution.
If you use 24v, you won't need any insulation but the cheapest and best thing to use is a number of 12v car globes.
Or you can use a 240v 1,000w radiator bar on 24v.
I'm wanting to experiment with ceramic, though I'm still thinking of trying the tubular deign with a heater element in the top. Might be simpler and easier????
I've ordered some resistance wire and also a 12v immersion heater that plugs into a cars cigarette lighter. I will have a play with both and see how it goes........