Also, the PIR sensor runs on 5 volts, the relay inside the unit I took a part was 12 volts. You can take power off the relay coil terminals to power your timer/buzzer.
Also, the PIR sensor runs on 5 volts, the relay inside the unit I took a part was 12 volts. You can take power off the relay coil terminals to power your timer/buzzer.
I agree about the current capacity, the ones I have dismantled have the Line series capacitor, about 0.22uF thru 0.47uF.
I have found the best way, is to wire a short mains extension lead across the lamp terminals, they are accessable on the terminal block
Terminate the extension lead with a 'free' socket and just plug in a low voltage adaptor,, it gives the current and isolation.
hi,
When you have the socket wired into the PIR's terminal block, it gives you a mains socket in which you can plug in a 12Vdc adaptor.
The length of the mains cable between the PIR and the extension socket can be many metres.
Be SURE to use mains rated cabling.!!!!
The 12Vdc output from the adaptor can be used to drive a 555 configured as a Monostable for a 10 second timing period which can drive a buzzer or bleeper.
Choose an adaptor that gives a regulated 12Vdc output at say 300mA [or higher] this should be good enough to drive most projects.
hi Ali,
I dont mean the 'solid' type of mains cabling, I mean 3 core mains voltage cable, rated at say 3Amps.
The same type as used on domestic appliances, dont just use for example, single insulated equipment wire.
Hi Diver,
If the 'night/day' setting pot on the PIR is turned right down, the floodlight will come on and the buzzer will sound during daylight hours.
I know that its not energy efficient, but he's only talking about 150W
Again we dont know the actual application.?
I have found that the detection range of the built in 'ding dong' tone on some PIR's is limited. That is, if the indoor plug adaptor that ding dongs is any distance/length from the PIR/wiring it dosnt always sound.???