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Pic Kit II with Demoboard?

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Hey there,

I'm going to order a PIC programmer, the PIC Kit 2 with the demoboard + chip too.

However, I'm not sure how am I going to put components like LED onto the demoboard, and it isn't a breadboard at all, judging by the PCB itself.

So I need to use the demoboard, attach the wires onto the row connectors (the external connector for the data input/outputs) to another of the breadboard?

Or I need not the demoboard, and directly hook it up to the breadboard, follow instructions on the chip datasheet and manual book? :D
 
You didn't say which one you are getting. the 44 pin demo board has a surface mount prototyping area. If you aren't comfortable with surface mount, you could solder solid core wires to the holes surrounding the 887 chip and then plug them into a solderless breadboard or use perfboard. There are 3 rows of holes surrounding the chip so you could put a few through hole components there though I think that would get pretty messy.

Or, you could skip the demo board and just a dip PIC and use a solderless breadboard for you prototyping.
 
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Oh that 28-pin demo board. It's not surface mount, it's the perforated board. It doesn't look like any veroboards though.

Or if I could just directly wire them to the breadboard, much easier that way.

Any guides to wire this thing up to the breadboard? I heard there's different methods of wiring up/interfacing with different PIC 16F/18F ? :D
 
ah, I see. Three approaches:
1) use the prototyping area. kind of messy. only use once before it gets messy.
2) Install headers in the rows next to the chip but on the bottom of the board. plug it into a solderless breadboard. can reuse it.
3) solder in wires for the pins you want to use and then attach them to vero/perf board with the rest of your components.

I don't understand your comment about differing 16F/18F. You just need to follow the pinout of the chip.

Frankly, I'd just get a bare chip, crystal and other components in a solderless breadboard. Much more simple.
 
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ah, I see. Three approaches:
1) use the prototyping area. kind of messy. only use once before it gets messy.
2) Install headers in the rows next to the chip but on the bottom of the board. plug it into a solderless breadboard. can reuse it.
3) solder in wires for the pins you want to use and then attach them to vero/perf board with the rest of your components.

I don't understand your comment about differing 16F/18F. You just need to follow the pinout of the chip.

Frankly, I'd just get a bare chip, crystal and other components in a solderless breadboard. Much more simple.

Oh I see. Hmm... Well, I have a lot of breadboards. I can use one of 'em as a programmer.

So how am I going to know whether the PIC Kit II is working or not, since most of the diagnostics are done on the provided (optional) protoboard? :D

It is because maybe I might want to build my own board and not rely on the provided protoboard, that way is easier. :)
 
the pickit2 will tell you everything you need to know. It knows if a PIC is connected. When you program the PIC, it will verify. If you use an 18F chip (and some 16F chips as well), it will allow you to single step it so you can see it actually executing. Pretty amazing package for $USD 35.
 
Oh that 28-pin demo board. It's not surface mount, it's the perforated board. It doesn't look like any veroboards though.

Is it the one with part# DM164120-3? It comes with a PIC16F886.

So how am I going to know whether the PIC Kit II is working or not, since most of the diagnostics are done on the provided (optional) protoboard?

Yes. The 16F886 is good for debugging with the PICKIT2.

However, on Microchip website, the PICKIT2 is offered bundled with two options of demo board fitted with different PICs. One is a surface mounted 44-pin 16F887 and the other one is a DIP 16F690. The catch is 16F690 cannot be debugged directly by PICKIT2 alone and need a header attachment(purchase separately). One would have thought Microchip bundled a DIP PIC which can be debugged directly without header attachment like the 16F886 mentioned above.

Why it is so is anybody's guess.
 
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Ok, I guess I'll get some simple microcontrollers for my daily learning enjoyment first. :)

Also, if I'm making a simple, permenant established circuit, is it good if I could use those cheap OTP (one time programmable) PIC chips? :D
 
Ok, I guess I'll get some simple microcontrollers for my daily learning enjoyment first. :)

Also, if I'm making a simple, permenant established circuit, is it good if I could use those cheap OTP (one time programmable) PIC chips? :D

Not unless you're manufacturing an item and using ten's of thousands of them, they aren't that much cheaper - and are mostly old low spec devices.
 
from my experience with the pickit, if you are a complete newby to microcontrollers as i was, then you don't really need to add any components. use it just to understand how they work, and fiddle with the supplied code to see what happens.

then when you want to try something else, use the pickit to program the chip but make your circuit on a seperate board.

all i have done to mine is change the socket to a zero insertion one
 
Not unless you're manufacturing an item and using ten's of thousands of them, they aren't that much cheaper - and are mostly old low spec devices.

from my experience with the pickit, if you are a complete newby to microcontrollers as i was, then you don't really need to add any components. use it just to understand how they work, and fiddle with the supplied code to see what happens.

then when you want to try something else, use the pickit to program the chip but make your circuit on a seperate board.

all i have done to mine is change the socket to a zero insertion one

Ok I got it. I'll do those µCs as usual, and I'll order Pic Kit II on this weekend without the protoboard and the goodies inside. I'll stock up on the PIC 18F and the 16Fs first. :)

Anything else I need to make my programmer's board? How about the diodes, the filter caps, and the resistors? Should I follow the instructions provided in the manual? :D
 
the protoboard they supply has a pot and a few leds and a push button. that's enough for all the programs they supply. if you just get the pickit then you wont get those bits
 
the protoboard they supply has a pot and a few leds and a push button. that's enough for all the programs they supply. if you just get the pickit then you wont get those bits

Mines come this morning :D

Great price, £9.99 inc. courier delivery.

Only had a very quick glance, not even opened the packing yet, but the demo board is really tiny.
 
Hi, Nigel Goodwin

Would you please let me know how to buy PICKIT2 at this Price 9.99 GBP?
 
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Hi, Nigel Goodwin

Would you please let me know how to buy PICKIT2 at this Price 9.99 GBP?

If you are located in the UK, buy the November issue of EPE (Everyday Practical Electronics) and follow the instructions on page 29. If you don't have a UK address this offer is not available to you.
 
If you are located in the UK, buy the November issue of EPE (Everyday Practical Electronics) and follow the instructions on page 29. If you don't have a UK address this offer is not available to you.

Thanks for your fast reply,

By the way, I have a mail box at UK.

Would you please upload page 29 of November 2008 or PM it to me?

I appreciate your help
 
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Hey guys and girls!

I got my Pic Kit II with the programming board, and it's pretty straightforward!

However, some of the assembly terms are very steep. I only get to understand if it's a C.

In the meantime how am I going to integrate C compiler into the MPELab environment thingy? :D
 
Hey guys and girls!

I got my Pic Kit II with the programming board, and it's pretty straightforward!

However, some of the assembly terms are very steep. I only get to understand if it's a C.

In the meantime how am I going to integrate C compiler into the MPELab environment thingy? :D

The no cost version of the Microchip C compiler works fine with MPLAB. Most other compilers do too. But you have to follow the instructions when you install them.
 
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