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PCB help!!!

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musikmeister

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Hi all, I am new to this forum, and I come in search of aid in making a PCB!

I'm getting stuck in trying to transfer the PCB design to the copper board using the laser printer/toner method. I have tried all kinds of paper, different laser printers, two or three different irons, several copper boards, and nothing has worked!!! I can't possibly be messing up such a simple procedure, but so far I have had absolutely no luck.

Would anyone in these forums be willing to print and transfer a design to a copper clad board? I've got the tools and chemicals to etch and drill, so I would really only need the design transfered to the copper board. I'd be willing to compensate you for your efforts!!!

Please PM me if you're interested or otherwise :)

Thank you all for your time!
 
This is not really an answer to your problem, however if you are looking for someone to help you etch a PCB it is a good idea to fill in your location so they will know what will be required to ship materials back and forth.
 
You can make a good transfer with an iron but there is a learning curve. For most people it is easier to use a laminator.

There are numerous threads on this and other sites on making PCBs using toner transfer.

Read the tutorial

Create High Resolution PCBs at home!

If you want to use the Pulsar paper and foils in the US the can be had from Mouser.com.

3v0
 
Hi musikmeister,

are you German? In English it would literally be "music master".

It seems to me that you have more machinery in your hobby shop than you are able to use properly.

Following 3V0's advice you should better use a good qualitiy laminator instead of an iron. With an iron you never know how hot a an area has become transferring toner from the paper print onto the copper clad. He further pointed out this is a process of learning - a pretty long and hard way sometimes.

Using photo positive method with UV-sensitive PCB material you should have a good laser printer, UV-exposure box and the necessary chemical products and a transparency to be used to expose and develop the "film".

For that method disable the printer setting "toner saving" and try to print an image of completely black traces and pads. (If necessary mount two films on top of each other. Traces and pads must be deep black!)

Do not "fill pads" using that option if your software offers it. Unfilled pads are easier to drill after etching, because the drill centers itself when hitting "bull's eye". (±0.25mm, otherwise kiss off the drill and say good bye to €7.50 :mad:)

Possible overexposure must be compensated for by reducing development time.

As soon as traces get visible check at short regular intervals for progress of development. When the PCB is developed to a point when no clouds of photoresist are visible anymore, remove it from the developer and rinse immediately and thoroughly. (Developer keeps on working until it is stopped by rinsing!)

When done drill the board as specified by drill diameters in your drill file.

Any more questions? PM me.

Regards

Boncuk
 
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