PCB etching

[Franknstein]

Hi All

I have a question regarding making your own PCB's. I'd like to use the laser printer transfer method. But the only raw boards I can find are the photo-development coated kind... now I dont mind buying this type, I just want to know if its possible to use it with the laser printer transfer method? If so, is there something I need to know?

Is this board suitable:

http://www.rssouthafrica.com/cgi-bi...lgekegilcefeceeldgondhgi.0&cacheID=zanetscape

Thanks

 

[3v0]

You can always scrub the photo resist off but it is a bit of a waste.

You did not fill in a location so we do not know where you could best buy products.

I buy my blank PCBs from the ElectronicGoldmine

EDIT:
You can also get them form the major electronics suppliers like Mouser, NewarkOne, DigiKey, and Maplin. But they will be more expensive then the surplus houses.

 

[Franknstein]

I'm in South Africa

 

[ericgibbs]

I'm in South Africa

hi Ryan,
Hope you are feeling warmer??? [heater fix]

Place your photo resist pcb's face side up, in strong sunshine for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Mix two table spoons of caustic soda with about 1 litre of warm water in a PLASTIC container, NOT metal,
[take care with the caustic - burns the skin and eyes, gloves and goggles].

If you cant buy caustic soda, look at some of the drain cleaners, they are caustic based.

Place the exposed pcb's in the caustic liquid for about 10 minutes, then wash off the photo resist with cold water, a good wash.

You can use this method to produce pcb's from an artwork master, then use copper etchant. No UV lamp needed.

Eric

 

[Franknstein]

Awesome! Thanks, I don't know why but I just cant seem to find the non-photo stuff. I'll give that a bash, thanks eric.

Yes, heater works perfectly now, I'm very warm

 

[ericgibbs]

Awesome! Thanks, I don't know why but I just cant seem to find the non-photo stuff. I'll give that a bash, thanks eric.

Yes, heater works perfectly now, I'm very warm

Hi,
A point to remember, whenever you remove the photo resist or a covering film from the copper it will start to tarnish.
This can give problems when you are soldering in components.

A light tarnish can be removed with 'duaraglit' thats a brass cleaner impregnated wadding, then a quick wash in soapy water and rinse, just before assembly.

EDIT:
I checked with my son in PE, regarding fused plugs, as used in the UK, no luck.
Next time I'm over there I will look in Makro, let you know.
Eric

 

[tiger toys]

In South Africa try Electronics 123 they have what you need

 

[Franknstein]

Thanks eric for the offer of the fuse plug, but I wouldn't worry too much, heater is working perfect, and I dont think the value of the product is worth the additional expense... but you're a legend for your kind offer!!!

Tiger-toys... thanks for the link!!!!

 

[tiger toys]

you can also try the following in SA Yebo electronics (expensive)
there is also Communica or Mantech electronics so far the best I have found for hobby usage is Electronics 123 their service is great

 

[Hero999]

If the sun lets you down the you can buy UV compact fluroscent tubes that will fit a normal light fitting and are excellent for exposing pre-sensitised boards.

 

[Souper man]

Or you could create your own UV LED array. Just make sure you buy UV leds, not deep violet. I have a 10mm Jumbo UV LED that Im using as a power indicator on my Farfalle robot.

 

[Hero999]

That would work but it would be less efficient and more expensive than a fluroscent exposure. The only advantage is it'll be more durable and there are not tubes to go wrong but it won't be much of a gain if it's only being used in your shead or house.