MOSFET heat question

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The on-resistance of the Mosfet increases when it gets hot. That causes it to get hotter. That causes the on-resistance to increase more. Thermal runaway.

A low resistance Mosfet switching very quickly gets cooler as it pulses PWM at a lower average current. It gets hotter if it switches slowly. It has a high gate-source and feedback capacitance so it is difficult to switch quickly.
 
Actually if you are only going to drive a light bulb you don't need the diode inductor or capacitor. It sounds like you have control of the PWM frequency so just drive it at higher than 60 Hz so your eye won't see it flicker and it won't cool much between cycles and it should work ok. What FET are you using now, and what are you driving it with?
 

I understand what you are saying, but where on the data sheet is the free air number? I'm not trying to dissipate 50W, only 1/100 of that in conductive mode (0.5Watts conductive power dissipation). I would not expect to need a heatsink but what should I expect the temperature to be in the MOSFET without a heat sink. I'm asking this question to better understand my specific situation but also as a theoretical question so i can more thoroughly understand these devices and how to read the data sheets...


This is opposite what I am seeing in my example. All other factors equal I changed the frequency, when doing this the heat in the MOSFET decreased with lower frequency. This is what I expected after I found the equation for switching heat dissipation,

PDSWITCHING = (CRSS × VIN2 × fSW × ILOAD)/IGATE

Also, I found a really good writeup on MOSFET heat calculations that validates my testing data.
**broken link removed**

But I also noticed the capacitor was getting hot to the touch, especially at the really low frequency (120Hz). Can somebody explain this and why the cap would get hot?






I'm using the P10T MOSFET, data sheet link as follows:
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2012/09/DS100024AIXTA-TH-TP76P10T.pdf

I'm using an Arduino Mega controller

I consider your suggestion to remove the inductor, cap, and diode...but would this have negative effects on the bulb lifespan? I'd image this would be harder on the bulb filament without the smoothing element of the buck converter arrangment.
 
But I also noticed the capacitor was getting hot to the touch, especially at the really low frequency (120Hz). Can somebody explain this and why the cap would get hot?
Capacitors have an equivalent series resistance (ESR). At low frequencies the ripple current through the cap is increased (the cap discharges and re-charges more) so the heat dissipated by the ESR increases.
 
 
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