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Mongoose-like robot

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upand_at_them

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This is sort of a question about Blueroom's Mongoose robot. I'm using the same gearbox and bridge, but it keeps going into thermal shutdown...even after just a few seconds running. I wondered if the Mongoose runs into this as well?

I've got the Tamiya gearbox, Tamiya tank treads, and 754410 H-bridge. I was hoping to use this as a test platform for some ideas. I was surprised about the thermal shutdown, since it's not going fast at all.

Mike
 
The tank treads are much harder to run than tires. Use the highest gear ratio available to keep the h-bridge from overheating. It'll be slow with those treads.

You could also thermal epoxy a heat sink to the 754410.
 
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With a high gear ratio the tank will be slow but shouldn't overheat the h-bridge. The RM-130 motor is near identical. Also add either one or three 0.1uF caps across the motor terminals.
 
I ran into the same problem, and had to run 114.7:1 ratio on the Tamiya double gear box with that setup. Mine's kind of heavy with 6 AA nimh batteries, and so that's about as high a speed as I'm going to get without stalling. Also running one 754410 H-bridge per motor, kind of a safety factor, and ready for higher amp motors like a Tamiya Hyper-Dash 2?
 
For an easy maybe fix just piggyback another 754410 ontop of the existing one and solder each pin to the lower chip. This will double the current to 2 amps and hopefully be enough to get you going.

Cheers Bryan
 
Good idea, thanks. Right now I'm building a new base and waiting for those low-current replacement motors to arrive, since my voltage regulator was burning up too.
 
I wouldn't use a voltage regulator on the motors, plus if it's burning up then you're design is just wasting energy. Can you post a schematic?
 
No schematic, but it's simple: a TO-220 7805 (1.5A) feeds the power rail for the motors, PIC16F886, and the H bridge (754410). I needed to regulate the motors, because I'm using a 7.2V LiIon pack and feeding them that much voltage significantly reduces their life.

I do like your idea of using 4xAA NiMh. But my AA's are currently tied up with another robot.
 
Don't regulate the motor power, there is a 1.4V drop anyway with the SN754410 and your 3V motors will be fine with a couple of extra volts. Using PWM will effectively lower the voltage to those motors. The 886 may have a low voltage monitor built in (the 18F2525 does) and you can monitor the battery voltage with a simple resistor divider (and control the PWM max duty accordingly)
Did you add the 0.1uF caps across the motor?
Pololu - 9. Dealing with Motor Noise
 
Okay, I'll see. More than 3V really does shorten the life, though:
https://www.pololu.com/picture/0J501.895.gif

Yep, got caps on the motors.

I won't be making any changes soon. Today I'm working on my line-following bot for the competition in a few weeks and I'm using the mini-mill to make a new servo mount and arm and get the steering code written.
 
New motors arrived today. The H-bridge doesn't even get warm now. The V-reg only barely so. I even went back to my original gear ratio. I'll get rid of the V-reg once I get some more AA cells. I hope to use it for testing proximity and line sensors soon.

IMG_0282..JPG
 
Strange behavior...I have to use a high duty cycle (>80%) to get the gearbox to move at all. Even with no load (off the floor) and even with the tank treads removed. I also noticed that if I stall one of the motors it causes the other to flip direction. Is this normal?
 
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Replying to myself here...The new Pololu motors like a higher voltage. They're quite weak at 3V. Feeding the H-bridge from the 7.2V battery is much better and I get a wide duty cycle range now.
 
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