I installed one of these **broken link removed** catches on a floor sweeper door because it didn't work anymore,
The initial fix was a rubber band, followed by a strap made of an extension spring and some string. I actually have two different brands of vacuums to fix with the same similar issue.
Yesterday, I decided to attack the problem and the real issue became how do you mark the installation holes? The larger part that was mounted first, Post-it tape to the rescue. I use that a lot to mark drill patterns. When I had a decent CAD program, I would usually use that as a Template. Post-it tape comes in a really wide width too and if you want you can tape onto a sheet of paper and print on it.
Screws for Plastics are hard to come by. Mcmaster has them, but https://us.screwerk.com/ has an awesome selection.
So, a piece of post-it tape was placed on the black plastic, a mark placed, drilled and one screw inserted. A transfer punch was used to transfer the other hole. I had to guess the depth, but some slop is alloted because of the slots.
Now, I had to mount the other part of the latch to the door and the position is somewhat critical. Again, Post-it tape on the door. I put the smaller part on the latch assembly and inserted the tips of a Q-tip or cotton swab into the holes. It was a near perfect friction fit.
Now, I just needed some "ink" of some sort. Well, I just so happened to have some wood stain dye, so I used that. So with a Inked Q-tip end, the lid was closed and the hole was transferred to the post-it tape, Again, drill and attach one hole and then do the other.
Actually, the process was done backwards for this catch. The smaller bar was attached first on standoffs and the ribs cut out with a Dremel tool and a plastic cutting blade which were strengthening the door. The tape was placed so that a line would be generated from the larger piece. So, the Q-tip swept a line when the door was closed.
I initially used this **broken link removed** catch, but it was not strong enough and I did use the first method. I kept both of them,
I actually like Torx screws because they look nice, but the local hardware store doesn't have them and they don't have much selection in 4-40 either, but I forgot to check their "gun screws". So, I settled with a button head cap screw for the large latch and Phillips for the the smaller one to mount the catch to the door. Screws with plastic screw threads for the other half.
The result turned out good. I may post some pics if I get a chance.
I plan on fixing the other vacuum and also using one of the larger switches with an integral microswitch to do a "door prop" type of alarm for a freezer. Actually, the plan is to activate a light when the door is open. The freezer is in basement where it's difficult to see the opening side of the door. Plans are to use outdoor double sided tape to attach the latches. I don't know how well this will work. generally, this light would need to be on when your in the freezer anyway. It's probably not perfect, but I need something better.
The 5 and 10 lb force of the latches are welcomed and it gives a positive indication that it's closed. It should help against something falling and opening the door.
Tags: "Vacuum cleaner door latch fix", "freezer door prop detection", "Marking cabinet latches" and "marking enclosures"
The initial fix was a rubber band, followed by a strap made of an extension spring and some string. I actually have two different brands of vacuums to fix with the same similar issue.
Yesterday, I decided to attack the problem and the real issue became how do you mark the installation holes? The larger part that was mounted first, Post-it tape to the rescue. I use that a lot to mark drill patterns. When I had a decent CAD program, I would usually use that as a Template. Post-it tape comes in a really wide width too and if you want you can tape onto a sheet of paper and print on it.
Screws for Plastics are hard to come by. Mcmaster has them, but https://us.screwerk.com/ has an awesome selection.
So, a piece of post-it tape was placed on the black plastic, a mark placed, drilled and one screw inserted. A transfer punch was used to transfer the other hole. I had to guess the depth, but some slop is alloted because of the slots.
Now, I had to mount the other part of the latch to the door and the position is somewhat critical. Again, Post-it tape on the door. I put the smaller part on the latch assembly and inserted the tips of a Q-tip or cotton swab into the holes. It was a near perfect friction fit.
Now, I just needed some "ink" of some sort. Well, I just so happened to have some wood stain dye, so I used that. So with a Inked Q-tip end, the lid was closed and the hole was transferred to the post-it tape, Again, drill and attach one hole and then do the other.
Actually, the process was done backwards for this catch. The smaller bar was attached first on standoffs and the ribs cut out with a Dremel tool and a plastic cutting blade which were strengthening the door. The tape was placed so that a line would be generated from the larger piece. So, the Q-tip swept a line when the door was closed.
I initially used this **broken link removed** catch, but it was not strong enough and I did use the first method. I kept both of them,
I actually like Torx screws because they look nice, but the local hardware store doesn't have them and they don't have much selection in 4-40 either, but I forgot to check their "gun screws". So, I settled with a button head cap screw for the large latch and Phillips for the the smaller one to mount the catch to the door. Screws with plastic screw threads for the other half.
The result turned out good. I may post some pics if I get a chance.
I plan on fixing the other vacuum and also using one of the larger switches with an integral microswitch to do a "door prop" type of alarm for a freezer. Actually, the plan is to activate a light when the door is open. The freezer is in basement where it's difficult to see the opening side of the door. Plans are to use outdoor double sided tape to attach the latches. I don't know how well this will work. generally, this light would need to be on when your in the freezer anyway. It's probably not perfect, but I need something better.
The 5 and 10 lb force of the latches are welcomed and it gives a positive indication that it's closed. It should help against something falling and opening the door.
Tags: "Vacuum cleaner door latch fix", "freezer door prop detection", "Marking cabinet latches" and "marking enclosures"
