Making a board need help

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Here it is.
It should be easy to work with. I bumped up the restring for larger pads and increased the distance between various sorts of foil.

Enjoy
 

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If you route the diode to pin6 under the IC you could get rid of that last jumper.

Sidenote to AdamSoft, PIC rarely lockup and don't really need a reset button if your code is solid. Use the watchdog timer instead.

PPS you only need one current limiting resistor 220ohm with just 2 LEDs.
 
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May be a bad idea to post the pour/fill in place. I do not see it. Take a look at the board and tell me if you can still get rid of it. I am not saying you can not but I can not see it right now.

Regarding the resistors. He can either cut the value in half and use two or replace one with a jumper.

AtomSoft: If you want to make changes please do it in Eagle or ask me to do them. If you use photoshop you could end up with problems that Eagle would have noticed. If you do not want the reset I can pull it out or you can choose to not populate it. As I said to Bill the LED resistor issue will not change the layout. If you removed the extra resistor you would need a jumper. I could pull the LEDs off the edge of the board and put them closer to the PIC and then using 1 resistor would not require a jumper. But I sort of like the LEDs where they are. Your choice. If the IR part is the same as the TSOPs I have you can mout it flat by bending the pins or leave them unbent and have it stick up.

A PCB is a lot like an oil painting. It is often hard to tell when it is done. This one should be close. The size is reasonable. The spacing is good. It passes all ERC and DRC checks. And it matches the schematic.
 

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AtomSoft said:
Oh yeah thanks again 3v0 Works 100% Thanks!

Good to hear that. A picture would be nice


Boncuk.
Making a PCB smaller does not always make it better.
 
3v0 said:
A PCB is a lot like an oil painting. It is often hard to tell when it is done.

Holy cows, batman, I couldn't agree more!

I think you can probably paint too?

Making a PCB smaller does not always make it better.

I agree here, too; tantamount to saying bigger paintings are better. Ever stood in front of a Vermeer?

Bigger 'n better, new n' improved....
 
3v0 said:
When I made the magic switchbox board I had to do it twice. The second time was to make it large enough so mear mortals could solder the thing. The contest sounds fun but I would rather do somthing useful.

Guilty as charged.

3v0, do you know if the eagle beta will work alongside v4.16 as I don't want to mess with the license stuff?

Mike.
 
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Pommie said:
Guilty as charged.

3v0, do you know if the eagle beta will work alongside v4.16 as I don't want to mess with the license stuff?

Mike.
At one point Cadsoft said you were not supposed to. I have copies of v4.16 and the current beta on my machine and both seem to work.

There are file format changes. Once you work on a file with the current beta (not sure at what rev number it happened) you can not go back to v4.16. And the beta is still a beta. Once in a while unexpected things happen, so far none have burned me.

No warranty implied or given.
 
Hi 3v0,

this is what I came up with.

**broken link removed**

Two main differences though:
- original SMD voltage regulator
- no jump

BTW, why does a 1uF capacitor have to be that big? (C4)

Hans
 
AtomSoft said:
its a spacing concern like i dont like things that might touch each other.

No problem with clean traces. Anyway, the cap has a pitch of 1/4inch, big enough to throw a parcel in between.
 
Boncuk,
Had you posted first saying that you would do the board for Atomsoft I would have let you do so. Why are we still here?

This is Atomsofts board. I wanted to be faithful to his design, keep changes to a minimun. Atomsoft used a SMD regulator on the schematic but his intent was to use a through hole part.
 

Hi 3v0,

sorry, Germans ave problems with the language barrier sometimes. I didn't get that. Sure, it's atomsoft's board. Therefor I didn't alter anything.

Anyway, my design shows that a double sided PCB isn't necessary using just one SMD component. Just mirror it and route like a through hole component. Saves three drills.
 

True, but it was the wrong part. I do not want to get into a pissing contest about this. Please.
 
My board is still 100% single sided i used wires to jump from A--->B since it was only 3 .... i have to say thanks again i find it awsome that all you would help with this...

Thanks Again
 
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