Hi, I when to my electronic store and ask for the LM383 but they didn't have it so they told me that the TDA 2002 is the same thing so I have that using instead of the LM383.
So I build the 7Watts amp with this TDA 2002 but the thing I'm having trouble is that with two nine volts battery it just makes a weird sound but with the one 9V I could hear it, and pretty loud too, but it doesn't sound clear I would describe it as distorted, and I was told that this amp could be power 5 to 20V so if you could tell me whats going on to be able to hear it rite and clear. Well thank you and for any comment.
I assume by 9v battery you mean the little batteries for radios and such like.
These batteries cannot supply sufficient current for a 7 watt amplifier.
A quick look at a TDA2002 datasheet shows that the quiescent current is typically 45mA which will drain your little batteries in no time.
When you try to get some power out of the amplifier, the current drain on the battery will be even higher.
You need a bigger battery.
I assume by 9v battery you mean the little batteries for radios and such like.
These batteries cannot supply sufficient current for a 7 watt amplifier.
A quick look at a TDA2002 datasheet shows that the quiescent current is typically 45mA which will drain your little batteries in no time.
When you try to get some power out of the amplifier, the current drain on the battery will be even higher.
You need a bigger battery.
I try and figure it out what you were talking but I don't understand what to look, what is this RC at the output and you mean the audio output.
And I put the IC in a heat sink.
I try and figure it out what you were talking but I don't understand what to look, what is this RC at the output and you mean the audio output.
And I put the IC in a heat sink.
I don't know where you found the schematic that is missing the very important RC at the output of the amplifier IC. It is shown on every circuit on the manufacturer's datasheets of the LM383 and the TDA2002.
Well I was told wrong, cause I been told that I could use two 9V batteries, but what could I power this amp with and can you provide with a link where to buy it or what store and ask for what. Well thank you Nigel Goodwin
OK thank so much audioguru you really are the best you always seen to help me even on the other threads that I post...
and yeah I been searching for more TDA 2002 schematic and most of them I found that one and I'am missing few stuff and I saw that in my the 10uF to pin one the neg goes to pin one and the one you provide Pos goes to pin one
But I have some question about the pic that you provide since I have the TDA2002 should I build the one with the TDA2002 IC or ether one would do.
And most of the part are the same but I checked and what is 100nf and where does the pos n neg of the battery go to and the audio too.
And does this amp have a potentiometer if so what size, and all the black rectangles are ground correct.
I don't know where you found the schematic that is missing the very important RC at the output of the amplifier IC. It is shown on every circuit on the manufacturer's datasheets of the LM383 and the TDA2002.
A 9 volt battery puts out less than 1 amp. A C size battery is 4 amps and a D size battery is 8 amps. You probably should do some math to figure out how many amps you need.
I have some Logitech computer speakers that's making the same noise at the TDA2002 when I connect the two 9V, but this speakers are power cord plug and they just started doing that and that happen when I connect them to the power and turn on the volume and that's when you hear the weird noise.
But thanks again audioguru.
A 9 volt battery puts out less than 1 amp. A C size battery is 4 amps and a D size battery is 8 amps. You probably should do some math to figure out how many amps you need.
The 16W bridge amplifier has an error. The "gain" pot does not affect the gain, it is used to adjust the output offset voltage so that the speaker does not have DC across it.
Its output is 16W at clipping only when its supply is 13.6V and its load is 4 ohms.
With the 6V supply shown and with an 8 ohm speaker its output at clipping is only 1W.
The 16W bridge amplifier has an error. The "gain" pot does not affect the gain, it is used to adjust the output offset voltage so that the speaker does not have DC across it.
Its output is 16W at clipping only when its supply is 13.6V and its load is 4 ohms.
With the 6V supply shown and with an 8 ohm speaker its output at clipping is only 1W.
I would trash them because they are obsolete and I would use a more modern IC instead.
There are a few amplifier ICs that already have two amplifiers in a bridge. The amplifiers are matched so they do not need an output offset voltage adjustment. The TDA2005 is available today from Digikey for $4.25US.
I would trash them because they are obsolete and I would use a more modern IC instead.
There are a few amplifier ICs that already have two amplifiers in a bridge. The amplifiers are matched so they do not need an output offset voltage adjustment. The TDA2005 is available today from Digikey for $4.25US.
Is TDA2005 a modern IC cause I was looking on the TDA2050 with 35W and I saw a schematic that look pretty easy but I'm going to put a picture, and if you could tell me if is legit not like the other one I got. But how much Watt does the TDA2005 give out.
The TDA2005 is a bridged amplifier for car radios. It uses two amplifiers in a bridge for almost 4 times as much power as a single amplifier when driving the same speaker and with the same 13V to 14V power supply. Its manufacturer lies about its power:
On the first page it says its output is 20W at 1% distortion.
On the fourth page its power is 20W at a horrible 10% distortion and is 15W at 1% distortion which I believe.
The datasheet for the TDA2050 says that with a 36V supply, its power is 28W into 4 ohms or 18W into 8 ohms with low distortion. With a 44 supply, its output is 25W into 8 ohms with low distortion.