lead free solder sucks!

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Bobby Ironsights

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Is it just that I'm really bad at it, or does lead free solder REALLY suck? I had to switch to my torch to get it the wires hot enough, and I was using the gun style 100w iron and the lead free solder that came with it. I actually had to press the solder blob into the wires. I need some good old lead solder.

I'm used to silver solder for small parts I don't want to weld, and frankly I didn't see much of a difference in the temp required, except I couldn't use an acid flux. Lame!
 
It can be considerably more difficult to work with and much harder to fix mistakes. It does amplify shortcomings in equipment and/or soldering equipment though. Good iron, appropriate type, and lots of flux!
 
Are you required to use lead free solder? If not, go back to the leaded version. Futurlec still sells it.
 
Lead free solder: save it for plumbing jobs. For electronic work, it SUX. You risk burning up delicate parts, it looks all too much like a cold joint, and it's difficult to work with. Additionally, it grows tin whiskers that can lead to equipment failure.

There is nothing good about this horrible stuff.
 
Amen, HAMs and other types that use a lot of solder have been collecting and keeping their shelves stocked with the good stuff.
 
I haven't used lead-free soldering tin till now. I also don't quite understand the hysteric call for lead-free electronic parts and soldering tin.

A big magic abbreviation "RoHS" seems to be one of the preferred words in the mouths of politicians.

As long as they pretend to use bicycles (calling for their Mercedes600 after 500m of byce drive - for the press) I'll have lead free soldering tin on my workbench using leaded soldering tin for work.

What will happen if some politician gets the idea to ban lead-acid batteries for cars?

Oh god, we'll be catapulted back to the 18th Century!

Boncuk
 
Alrighty then, I'm glad it's just not me. I couldn't find any thin lead resin core locally, bought a few tubes off of ebay last night.

Thanks for the input guys,
Bobby.
 
If you still want to try lead free try a few different kinds, there are dozens of alloys out there. I don't know the price or availability but SnBi solder actually has a melting point 40 degrees bellow standard tin/lead solders.
 
kchriste said:
If the discarded electronics weren't dumped in landfills it wouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...

It must have been more than the issue that a few gangsters dumped electronic garbage in the wrong places.

It's also not advisable to use etchant solution for furtilizer in your garden.

Boncuk
 
Boncuk, it's not a few gangsters. It's EVERYONE. People just throw the stuff out electronics, batteries, TV tubes, fluorescent bulbs. It costs money to have electronics recycled, it's free to throw them in the garbage and enforcement of what's legal to throw in the garbage is excessively lax. Considering the ammount of solder on electrical devices banning lead is pretty much a no brainer.
 
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It seems to be handled different at different places. Garbage collectors in Germany refuse to empty the garbage can if they find the smallest piece of electronic equipment in it. (And they do check thoroughly by turning the content upside down )

If they are in bad mood they don't hesitate to dump the entire content of the can in the street. In that case the "legal owner" of the garbage better get it back in order to avoid prosecution.

Boncuk
 
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Key being... lots of flux. Typical hobyist is just trying to do quick solder joints, 60/40 rosin cored solder is easier to work with.
 
He can buy an inexpensive tin of flux, a little bit will do alot. Apply a small amount with an exacto knife to the joint before soldiering. I said "lots" but that's relative to the joint. Small pads, etc. only need a little flux.
 
Gotta deal with the flux afterwards though, generic rosin core solder is heat and forget thing. Add more than that and it has to be cleaned. More muss more fuss.
 
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