Hi team and first let me thank everyone for what has become a valuable resource for me. I am more a lurker than a contributor simply because I don't know squat about anything as far as consumer electronics go. Actually, that's not strictly true, as an avionics technician I can repair some stuff but aircraft electronics don't show up here very often!
Anyway, I inherited a Kikusui Model 537 scope. It's a little retro beauty and very, very well made. The biggest problem is that it doesn't work properly. I opened it up and noticed a resistor 'flying' from one of the circuit boards; obviously someone had replaced it before as there was a burnt spot on the board under where the resistor should have been. Instead whoever had performed the previous repair had inserted the resistor from underneath and placed it with a gap, probably for air in case it got warm again. The air gap wasn't enough because this resistor was smoked and open circuit. The colours were history so I guessed going by the first and last colours. It turns out I was way off, but more on that later.
I replaced the resistor with what I thought it should be and fired it up. With much joy I noted it working. That is, I noted a trace appear on the screen. It was short-lived, however and lasted about thirty seconds before I got smoke, accompanied by crackling and popping and it stopped working. The resistor was smoked again. I resorted to Google but could find nothing specific to my model. I did find the hompeage of Kikusui and emailed them asking about it. They offered a repair agent in Australia; not an option. I asked (more like begged) if they had a circuit and after a lot of toing and froing and me agreeing not to redistribute it, they sent it to me (big kudos to Kikusui there.) I discovered that the 100 Ohm resistor should have been 100K. I replaced it and carefully switched it on. More crackling and popping and a hot resistor. Long story short I tracked it down to a shorted capacitor (.022uF at 1500V) in the 506v/HT circuit on the PSU board and duly replaced it. I also replaced the On/Off/Intensity switch/pot as this was the one doing the popping by arcing internally.
To my relief the thing fired up OK and I got a nice trace on the screen. I followed the instructions in the user manual (freely available from Kikusui.com) and set about calibrating it. That's as far as I got and this is where I need your help (if you read this far!). I get two dots on the screen, one above the other, which I assume is the test voltage (1v peak to peak) which should display as a square wave. When altering the multiplier switches, the dots move closer or further away from each other, as would be expected. I have up and down positioning, horizontal gain, intensity, focus, variable and all other controls all manipulate the trace, but I get no actual waveform displayed. It looks to me like a static reading without any sweep, if that's the right terminology (as you can tell, I don't know scopes very well). The sweep frequency switch has no effect at all on the two dots; they just stay put where they are and it is in this area where I think the problem lies. I eyeballed the circuits as best I can and can see no obviously damaged/smoked components. There are three circuit boards inside the thing, all interwired. I don't think the power supply issues I had before would have touched any of this circuit but I could be wrong. All the voltages (which are marked in various test points on the board) are good and within limits.
It is all made with discrete components so I could easily replace everything on the board but I thought I might get some ideas from the board before resorting to this type of repair.
Sorry for the War and Peace post and thanks again for the resource.
Dave.
Anyway, I inherited a Kikusui Model 537 scope. It's a little retro beauty and very, very well made. The biggest problem is that it doesn't work properly. I opened it up and noticed a resistor 'flying' from one of the circuit boards; obviously someone had replaced it before as there was a burnt spot on the board under where the resistor should have been. Instead whoever had performed the previous repair had inserted the resistor from underneath and placed it with a gap, probably for air in case it got warm again. The air gap wasn't enough because this resistor was smoked and open circuit. The colours were history so I guessed going by the first and last colours. It turns out I was way off, but more on that later.
I replaced the resistor with what I thought it should be and fired it up. With much joy I noted it working. That is, I noted a trace appear on the screen. It was short-lived, however and lasted about thirty seconds before I got smoke, accompanied by crackling and popping and it stopped working. The resistor was smoked again. I resorted to Google but could find nothing specific to my model. I did find the hompeage of Kikusui and emailed them asking about it. They offered a repair agent in Australia; not an option. I asked (more like begged) if they had a circuit and after a lot of toing and froing and me agreeing not to redistribute it, they sent it to me (big kudos to Kikusui there.) I discovered that the 100 Ohm resistor should have been 100K. I replaced it and carefully switched it on. More crackling and popping and a hot resistor. Long story short I tracked it down to a shorted capacitor (.022uF at 1500V) in the 506v/HT circuit on the PSU board and duly replaced it. I also replaced the On/Off/Intensity switch/pot as this was the one doing the popping by arcing internally.
To my relief the thing fired up OK and I got a nice trace on the screen. I followed the instructions in the user manual (freely available from Kikusui.com) and set about calibrating it. That's as far as I got and this is where I need your help (if you read this far!). I get two dots on the screen, one above the other, which I assume is the test voltage (1v peak to peak) which should display as a square wave. When altering the multiplier switches, the dots move closer or further away from each other, as would be expected. I have up and down positioning, horizontal gain, intensity, focus, variable and all other controls all manipulate the trace, but I get no actual waveform displayed. It looks to me like a static reading without any sweep, if that's the right terminology (as you can tell, I don't know scopes very well). The sweep frequency switch has no effect at all on the two dots; they just stay put where they are and it is in this area where I think the problem lies. I eyeballed the circuits as best I can and can see no obviously damaged/smoked components. There are three circuit boards inside the thing, all interwired. I don't think the power supply issues I had before would have touched any of this circuit but I could be wrong. All the voltages (which are marked in various test points on the board) are good and within limits.
It is all made with discrete components so I could easily replace everything on the board but I thought I might get some ideas from the board before resorting to this type of repair.
Sorry for the War and Peace post and thanks again for the resource.
Dave.