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That's for programming any ICSP PIC. That's what a programmer is for. The onboard 1320 is just a convience. No cable needed because the wires are on the board. Don't forget to change over the top 3 dip switches from Tutor to Programmer.UTMonkey said:Hi All,
Please see attached graphic, the pins on this connector are VPP, 5V, GND, PGD, PGC.
does this connector allow me to program a 18F1320 in a target board?
Better still could I program other chips?
Mark
Hehehe! Only if you're some kind of masochist. I used a ZIF for a brief period when I was a newb. NEVER AGAIN! What a pain in the butt!Kyle-s4h said:You could also use the port with the FireFly board to program microcontrollers in a ZIF socket (or build your own ZIF socket board if you just want the ZIF part).
futz said:Hehehe! Only if you're some kind of masochist. I used a ZIF for a brief period when I was a newb. NEVER AGAIN! What a pain in the butt!
To add to all the pictures, here is a pic of what I use for my ICD2. It is a PCB mount RJ12 jack with #22AWG wires soldered to it which plug into the breadboard with tinned ends. It allows me to quickly isolate the ICD2 from the circuit under development by unplugging the ICD2 patch cable.blueroomelectronics said:The genuine ICD2 uses a RJ12 not easy to breadboard
And I'm surprised you don't put simple instructions for (optionally) doing it in the docs (for the fearful newbs ). I've assembled other companies' kits where they gave details for a fix like that on the board (sometimes multiple fixes). C'mon, do it!blueroomelectronics said:I was surprised how many Unicorn owners cut and jumpered the trace for the LED.
I've got lots of spares. One brand wouldn't even light up. The blue one from DipMicro lights up but displays nothing. The problem may be that I don't have a 25K trimmer. Only a 10K stuffed in the holes loose. If I turn it all the way CW I can faintly see blocks but no text.If you've got a spare 2x16 LCD try out the Swordfish Christmas LCD program
I just bought three of **broken link removed** from **broken link removed**. Once I get this board finalized, a GLCD is one of my next projects.Pommie said:As you have the Unicorn, why don't you get a GLCD and have some real fun. I did a simple demo in this thread.
Mike.
Futz,futz said:I just bought three of **broken link removed** from **broken link removed**. Once I get this board finalized, a GLCD is one of my next projects.
If I get stuck I may look at your code, but I hate to cheat. I plan to write my own code first.
Thanks for the link.
I've been lazy about cleaning new boards lately. I used to clean every one spotless. Guess I should start doing it again before my boards start "growing fur".Mike said:Slightly off topic but I noticed on that LED wiring fix close-up picture that there's a bunch of flux left on your board. Don't you clean up and remove the flux using finger nail polish remover or something similar?
Hehehe! I finally disconnected everything, pulled the LCD and really looked the board over closely. Turns out I missed soldering one pin on the MCU. Soldered it up and she works! Contrast is crappy with that 10k pot, but good enough to see it.I've got lots of spares. One brand wouldn't even light up. The blue one from DipMicro lights up but displays nothing. The problem may be that I don't have a 25K trimmer. Only a 10K stuffed in the holes loose. If I turn it all the way CW I can faintly see blocks but no text.If you've got a spare 2x16 LCD try out the Swordfish Christmas LCD program
I played with jumpering with a wire, but still nothing.