Yeah, you print it out and attach it to the board, then you need an ultraviolet source to "expose" the board, then etch like normal.zachtheterrible said:thanx johnson and jrz. i looked into the photoresist method, and it looked rather complicated. Press n peel seems pretty simple . . . print it out, iron it on, and stick it in the solution, right? And with the photoresist method, do you print it out?
zachtheterrible said:I've been building a cross between a paintball gun and an airsoft gun :lol: . i know id be breaking bits left and right.
I'd say the press n peel sounds a bit easire because you don't have to deal with lights and stuff.
It's the bolt that moves back and forth. Can you try to rig up a piece of metal, kinda like a paper clip that will hold the ball in place, but still be able to move out of the way? Thats what I did on this little project here: https://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/435572/3 only I used a coathanger. hmm, guess I didnt take a pic. of it.zachtheterrible said:Well, it basically is a c02 powered airsoft gun :twisted: . What i did was elongate the (wuddya call that thing, it moves back and forth in the paintball gun wen u shoot, u pull it back and [bleep] it . . .) by attatching a piece of brass tubing to it. This sticks out of the gun. I took off the paintball barrel and plugged a 1/2" pvc pipe in it. Inside of the pvc pipe is the actual barrel. The actual barrel is connected to sort a drip line T connector. If you're looking @ the T connector, the airsoft BBs feed into the bottom of it, on the left side of the T, is the barrel, and on the right side of the T is elongated cocking thing from inside the gun slides in and out of the T connector. (did that sentence sound a little bit wrong??). The BB feed is spring loaded.
So it pretty much loads and shoots the exact same way that a paintball gun does, accept for it has a spring loaded feed.
I've spent about a year developing the thing. Half the reason it took so long is that i was always needing parts n stuff, and of course i don't have a license YET, so i always had to wait on my mom. I had it shooting flawlessly the other night, but a little piece in there broke and ive gotta fix it. The trick to getting it to not jam, spit out too many BBs, etc. is a little piece of fishing wire that you put right where the BBs load into the barrel, so they don't roll out and stuff. I need to find something more durable, but just as small. Can you think of anything?
It is SOOOOOOOOOOOOO cool. My barrel is just a piece of aluminum tubing from hank's hardware, so its not rifled. If i can get my hands on an actual airsoft barrel, I'd expect to be able to shoot like 300 ft. pretty accurately. When I had it working, it was the awesomest thing ever :lol: . It is totally homebrew, I have no machining skills or anything like that, so I've just bought stuff from lowe's, ace's, home depot, and modified them to suit my purpose :lol:
For step 3, the PnP that will be left is where you'll want copper traces to be after etching. The PnP covers the copper, protecting it from the etchant.zachtheterrible said:oh yeah, back 2 my original subject :lol: . i think im probly gonna go w/ press n peel. it seems to be the simplest, other than doin it w/ a sharpie, but i dont wanna do that. I think that this is the way to do it, but i just want to make sure.
1. Print out the artwork on a laser printer or photocopier.
2. iron it on to the copper clad board.
3. Peel it off, and im not too sure about this step. i take it that when it is peeled off, there are pieces of the PnP left over.
4. Put it in the etchant solution.
5. Take it out when it is done and wash it off with water.
6. Peel off the rest of the PnP.
am i right??
I think thats what i sed. or am i missing something?For step 3, the PnP that will be left is where you'll want copper traces to be after etching. The PnP covers the copper, protecting it from the etchant.
zachtheterrible said:Well, it basically is a c02 powered airsoft gun :twisted: . What i did was elongate the (wuddya call that thing, it moves back and forth in the paintball gun wen u shoot, u pull it back and [bleep] it . . .) by attatching a piece of brass tubing to it. This sticks out of the gun. I took off the paintball barrel and plugged a 1/2" pvc pipe in it. Inside of the pvc pipe is the actual barrel. The actual barrel is connected to sort a drip line T connector. If you're looking @ the T connector, the airsoft BBs feed into the bottom of it, on the left side of the T, is the barrel, and on the right side of the T is elongated cocking thing from inside the gun slides in and out of the T connector. (did that sentence sound a little bit wrong??). The BB feed is spring loaded.
So it pretty much loads and shoots the exact same way that a paintball gun does, accept for it has a spring loaded feed.
I've spent about a year developing the thing. Half the reason it took so long is that i was always needing parts n stuff, and of course i don't have a license YET, so i always had to wait on my mom. I had it shooting flawlessly the other night, but a little piece in there broke and ive gotta fix it. The trick to getting it to not jam, spit out too many BBs, etc. is a little piece of fishing wire that you put right where the BBs load into the barrel, so they don't roll out and stuff. I need to find something more durable, but just as small. Can you think of anything?
It is SOOOOOOOOOOOOO cool. My barrel is just a piece of aluminum tubing from hank's hardware, so its not rifled. If i can get my hands on an actual airsoft barrel, I'd expect to be able to shoot like 300 ft. pretty accurately. When I had it working, it was the awesomest thing ever :lol: . It is totally homebrew, I have no machining skills or anything like that, so I've just bought stuff from lowe's, ace's, home depot, and modified them to suit my purpose :lol:
Itll screw off the gun of course, so if i take out the elongated thingy, and put the paintball barrel back on, i got my paintball gun back :lol: .Yeah, you print it out and attach it to the board, then you need an ultraviolet source to "expose" the board, then etch like normal.I'd say the press n peel sounds a bit easire because you don't have to deal with lights and stuff.
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