3v0 said:
I should add that I used pulsarProFx paper to transfer the toner to the paint. It is coated with starch and is very good at not sticking to anything including paint.
I repeated many times in this and other forums: I'm using very cheap "gummed" collage paper, it has that starch coating on the back (like a big postal mark!) - children (and adults, of course) just cut the piece of that paper, lick it a little, or moisten with some sponge and it get sticky (it is absolutely non-toxic).
Surprisingly, like nobody else in the whole world never heard about that paper
!?
Here are some examples how it works (exactly like Pulsar's, it is just much cheaper (about 2 USD for 12 sheets!), and takes a little longer to soak (because of the glossy finish on colored side). I picked randomly orange paper.
So you just print test print on ordinary paper, cut a piece of collage paper and fix it on the place of the image with a little of capton (high-temp.stabile) tape. Than print again with full resolution and highest toner-density (on glue side, of course, not on the colored side!)! Laminate (I make about 15-20 passes with unmodified laminator, just in case...)! There is no harm to laser printer!
1) after few minutes of soaking:
View attachment 63178
2) some 10 min later:
View attachment 63179
3) after about 20 min. the magic begins
:
View attachment 63180
4) after about half an hour, the paper just floats on the water surface (without ANY intervention!), leaving
just PURE toner (as Pulsar!) on the board!
View attachment 63181
Now, you just have to soak (a little bit) PCB in fresh water, or rinse it under running water to remove any eventual glue residue (again, just like with Pulsar's proprietary paper)! You can apply TRF-Green or White if you wish.