Help buidling custom binary clock

Hello! I have decided to attempt a binary clock project. However, I am having trouble finding a high power microcontroller for the project. Now, I have just launched into the electronics world, and will need some lamense terms to get along with this project. But, without further ado, the basic stats of the project. I need to have:

• At least 30 output (5mm LEDs, preferably 10mA +), 4 input pins (Buttons)
  
• Be able to run on 5v (preferably), but no more than 12v and enough dissipation and mA sunk
• AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE!
• DIP/PDIP form factor (If possible)

So, basically the only *technical* requirement is 34 I/O pins. I do have a source for almost any other parts I need, and so all I need now is a microcontroller! So, all help is appreciated ahead of time, and have a nice day! Thanks!

EDIT: I find this one to be the best fit, but need to find a way to increase the dissipation limits (2w should do it, DEFINITELY.) Also, can anyone supply what an LED looks like at roughly 10 mA of power? Thanks if you can!

Take it form me you dont need a high power chip for a binary clock, if its the kind of thing I'm thinking of anyway.
The pic16f628 is a popular device for this kind of application.
The 'f628 doesnt have that many o/p's, it has 16, you can still control that many led's though as you can use multiplexing (do a google), this is a common practice with leds.
The 'f628 runs from 5v, you could power the chip from 12v using a 7805 regulator.
I have built several odd clocks using pics.

Thanks for your speedy answer! Now, I mostly want to make sure that this chip will be able to light up and handle thirty LEDs and four push buttons. Will it? Also: I looked up Microplexing (and Charlieplexing (which, in my case, might work best)), and that seems all fine and dandy, and definitely would make it use fewer inputs. Thank you for pointing that out to me! Anyways, back to the main question: will the f628 be able to handle the rare occasion where 25 of the 30 LEDs would be on (yes, I did the math, 25 is the max that would go at once), also while receiving input from a button, maybe two (highly, HIGHLY unlikely, as I am the only one who will be using the clock, and I know how to care for it)? While I suppose that since it would be refreshing the LEDs, and only one or two would be on in a row, I just want to make sure. You can never be too safe, you know. But once again, thank you so much for your input, and it definitely helped me out in processing what I would be doing. Thanks once more!

I cant remember if I've ever had a 30+ led project so I cant say from experience but a 'f628 would be my first choice for that, I certainly wouldnt be reaching for a pic with a built in pll or one with loads of io.

You might want a chip with a real time clock, this will save you a lot of code writing. PIC18F65K22 has a RTCC but it only comes in surface mount. is that a problem?
This chip can have very fast clock rates, such that it would spend most of its time sleeping even with 30 LEDs being controlled.

Okay. So, as you may know, the idea that I once had is ever evolving, changing every time I get new information. Perhaps you gentlemen could give me advice for this: I have an arduino uno board, rev 3. If I purchased an Atmega328, do you think that I could program it through the arduino board and then unplug and go from there? I would obviously find out if I can do it with the arduino first, but if it works on the board, would I be able to get a 328 and run it standalone and go from there? Thanks so much for the speedy answers, by the way!

Yes of course the arduino uno can do this job. But if you get it working on the uno why bother building your own board? if you want it smaller then use the arduino nano.

How do you intend to keep time, use the internal timers or buy a RTCC?

Misterbenn, I think you misunderstand what I am trying to say. What I am saying is that I would purchase just the processor for the arduino, program it, and rip the chip out and use it, sans full arduino board. You see? Program the chip, and run it into the clock base and go from there. Also, I have no idea what an RTCC is . Please explain to me what that is, how to use it, and give me an example? Thanks so much!

I have no idea what an RTCC is

Click to expand...

It's a real time clock and calendar, you could use just an RTC a real time clock. Instead of having to build your own counter timer to keep track of time some chips include an RTC. The benefit is that to get the time you just ask the RTC.

I think you misunderstand what I am trying to say. What I am saying is that I would purchase just the processor for the arduino, program it, and rip the chip out and use it, sans full arduino board

Click to expand...

No I do understand, I just don't understand why you would ever want to do this? If you take the chip off the arduino board then you'll just end up building your own board with the various crystals / capacitors / peripherals that you'll need.
If you want to program a chip and build your own board for the clock, then buy a purpose built programmer.
If you want to try and make a smaller board than the arduino uno for the chip I don't think you could do better than the arduino nano.

Thanks so much for the help on the RTCC and RTC. I think I would use an RTCC, as it is month, date, and day of week.

What all do I need (bare minimum) to run the 328 alone? I forgot that I need the crystal, but the power supply I've got in mind (USB micro B). Like, do I need any capacitors, resistors, or anything else for the board (I've got resistors for the LEDs)? What else would I need for the hookup from RTCC to arduino? Don't worry about wire, obviously. But all in all, the purpose of ripping the chip from the board is simply to conserve space. Now, that space will be taken up by the amorphous blob of wires that I will create, but at least they will conform to the container (5" x 5" x ?"). I just feel like I want to have open space, you know? I respect what you said about the micro/nano, but I just feel like cutting down to the chip and components would save space in my case. I'm absolutely positive that you are right, and that the micro or the nano would save space, but I'm gonna go my own way on this one. Thanks for your help, and remember my question: What components do I need to run the 328 standalone? Thanks so much!