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Glass epoxy PCB

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Badar

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I have just used a PCB (may be it is copper sheet) with feric chloride and marker.
I don't know what is Glass epoxy PCB.Can anyone kindly give me some information about this and other different types of PCB's.
How can i mark lines on them.
What equipment do i need.
 
Glass epoxy PCB is often called FR4 laminate. It is an epoxy filled glass sheet with 1/2, 1 or 2 ounces of copper per square foot. There is also a paper based laminate but it is not cheap enough to interest the hobbiest. You can use a Sharpie pen with ultra fine point to draw the circuit then etch the board using ferric chloride which is available from Radio Shack and on line.

You will get much better results using a program such as Eagle which allows you to draw the schematic and then layout the pcb.
You can download a free version. It is frustrating to start, but forum members will help.
 
Russlk said:
Glass epoxy PCB is often called FR4 laminate. It is an epoxy filled glass sheet with 1/2, 1 or 2 ounces of copper per square foot. There is also a paper based laminate but it is not cheap enough to interest the hobbiest. Y

are there any pros / cons to fiberglass versus paper pc-boards? The last big batch of photo boards I bought were paper laminate instead of fiberglass laminate. They seem to work ok for my little projects.
 
Thanks a lot for this information
Russlk said:
You will get much better results using a program such as Eagle which allows you to draw the schematic and then layout the pcb.
You can download a free version. It is frustrating to start, but forum members will help.

Is this program or any other like it just used to design a PCB circuit from a schematic or can i get it printed directly on the PCB by any means.
Or i'll have to make drawing on PCB by hand.

Sorry if it is a stupid question but please do tell me about this.
 
it's just a matter of quality. the cheaper paper laminate is perfectly fine for prototypes, etc, but the fiberglass laminates are much nicer for higher-quality boards. I guess the points on which you would compare the two would be strength, rigidity, ability to get nice clean holes and edges, etc... I don't know any quantitative facts about the differences, but qualitatively (in my opinion) the fiberglass board is just better on all counts - except price.

Since I buy all my blank PCB stock as industrial surplus on ebay, I pay so little for the fiberglass laminate that I use it exclusively.

Badar said:
Thanks a lot for this information

Is this program or any other like it just used to design a PCB circuit from a schematic or can i get it printed directly on the PCB by any means.
Or i'll have to make drawing on PCB by hand.

Sorry if it is a stupid question but please do tell me about this.
Badar, do some google searches for methods of making homemade PCB's. try 'toner transfer' as a search term to get you started. There are dozens of existing tutorials on methods that exist for making PCB's at home.
 
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Badar

The key is getting the best transfer possible. With paper made for the purpose it is nearly foolproof.

The **broken link removed** site sells products for doing the process but it is worth visiting even if you do not use their stuff. They have info on figuring out how to set the clothes iron temperature on the instructions page. There is also a **broken link removed**on getting a better transfer by using a large dowel under the board. It provides a laminator like action/process without the expense of buying one.

3v0
 
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evandude said:
it's just a matter of quality. the cheaper paper laminate is perfectly fine for prototypes, etc, but the fiberglass laminates are much nicer for higher-quality boards. I guess the points on which you would compare the two would be strength, rigidity, ability to get nice clean holes and edges, etc... I don't know any quantitative facts about the differences, but qualitatively (in my opinion) the fiberglass board is just better on all counts - except price.

Professionally the cost of the bareboard isn't the main concern, with fibreglass they have to drill the holes - with SRBP boards they can punch the holes, a much cheaper operation. At least this is what we were told by a major TV manufacturer years ago.
 
Also consider the environment you wish to operate in. Large temperature and humidity variations can destroy the paper boards over time.
 
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