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Get a schematic for any ECU ECM automobile car $15 to $30

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As per the first part of this post, these "schematics" only provide pinouts and not the guts.
Careful with your monies
 
The better fix it books at the auto parts stores have them too!
Plus the book also has basic to fairly good electrical system wiring diagrams and loads of other useful general info on your vehicle. All for around 15 - 25 dollars depending on book and vehicle.

Now find me a place that sells a hacking system that will allow me absolute and full code reading and rewrite control of the computer for $15 -$30 and I will be very impressed!
 
Books at the Auto store?

I have looked at MANY auto stores on the web as well as several in FL to no avail. None of them have had the schematics of anything except wiring diagrams. Which book(s) or publisher are you referring;) to?
If so
Thanks
 
I have both Haynes and Chilton books for every vehicle I have owned. They all had a full pin layout diagram relating to the EEC or ECU systems.
That is the wiring diagrams show the EEC or ECU as a block with numbered lines and color abbreviations coming out of it that correspond to the pin number and the wire color code. From that I have been able to trouble shoot electrical problems with little difficulty.
However it should be noted I have all Ford vehicles and it may be likely that what I have for electrical reference may not be in all books relating to all makes and models.
Most auto dealerships will let you have a full copy of wiring diagrams for your vehicle for free if you talk to the right person. I have never had any trouble getting additional service files from any of the local dealership repair shops when I had a wiring question that I felt the Chilton or Haynes books were possibly missing something.

I did a full propane conversion of a 1999 Ford F250 Super duty last year and needed to find out exactly how I shut off the fuel injectors without the computer knowing about it and where to tie into the O2 sensor lines in order to send false O2 sensor signals back to the computer so as to fool it into thinking it was still running on gasoline.
Propane burns much cleaner and cooler than gasoline so the O2 sensors cant read it and often do not warm up enough to send a signal back to the computer. The computer then logs O2 sensor error codes relating to them being too cool and A/F ratios being to far off range.

I had a question about a possible schematics omission in my book and went to the local Ford dealership and asked them. They had me sign a paper with my name and address and then they gave me a full dealers service manual to borrow for a few days! It had every note, schematic, and factory change reference Ford ever released to the dealer repair centers in it relating to my exact model and year of truck.

I dont know if all dealerships will do that or not but locally ours do!
 
Last edited:
ECM schematic

Hi all
I'm looking for quite some time after a schematic diagram for the ECM installed in my Daewoo Racer 94 vehicle, but to no avail. the more I've searched the more frustrated I became - like as if it never existed. posts on severall Daewoo club site didn't help either - so it remains so far a "black box".
if someone knows anything about it - its # is 16190674 - and willing to offer any information - that will be great.
 
Thanks for the publisher names

I have a Chilton shop manual:confused:. I will look again, but do not recall anything even close to a schematic. Several wiring diagrams, and the couple which had/has the ECU in it (ECU is what Isuzu calls the computer, Electronic Control Unit) only refer to it a s box in the drawing and the appropriate wires into/out of, for that particular subject. Not the "Pin outs" or the list of resistors, diodes, ICs, in what slot # & value, like R11 500Mw 100Ω, Zd14..., D52..., C34... or IC27... etc.
 
I have both Haynes and Chilton books for every vehicle I have owned. They all had a full pin layout diagram relating to the EEC or ECU systems.
That is the wiring diagrams show the EEC or ECU as a block with numbered lines and color abbreviations coming out of it that correspond to the pin number and the wire color code. From that I have been able to trouble shoot electrical problems with little difficulty.
However it should be noted I have all Ford vehicles and it may be likely that what I have for electrical reference may not be in all books relating to all makes and models.
Most auto dealerships will let you have a full copy of wiring diagrams for your vehicle for free if you talk to the right person. I have never had any trouble getting additional service files from any of the local dealership repair shops when I had a wiring question that I felt the Chilton or Haynes books were possibly missing something.

I did a full propane conversion of a 1999 Ford F250 Super duty last year and needed to find out exactly how I shut off the fuel injectors without the computer knowing about it and where to tie into the O2 sensor lines in order to send false O2 sensor signals back to the computer so as to fool it into thinking it was still running on gasoline.
Propane burns much cleaner and cooler than gasoline so the O2 sensors cant read it and often do not warm up enough to send a signal back to the computer. The computer then logs O2 sensor error codes relating to them being too cool and A/F ratios being to far off range.

I had a question about a possible schematics omission in my book and went to the local Ford dealership and asked them. They had me sign a paper with my name and address and then they gave me a full dealers service manual to borrow for a few days! It had every note, schematic, and factory change reference Ford ever released to the dealer repair centers in it relating to my exact model and year of truck.

I dont know if all dealerships will do that or not but locally ours do!
Just out of curiousoty, was it hard to convert to propane?
Would that be similar for hydrogen?
How is the milage better worse?
Power with loads up/down hills etc.?
 
They dont give you a schematic of the ECU only the wire color code and what pin it goes to on the connector plug.

Propane is fairly easy to set up on a vehicle. It takes me about a day to do a full dual fuel system install.
Dual fuel is when your retain the full gasoline system and have the propane system all integrated with it down to a simple switch under the dash that allows you to switch between the two on the go.

The propane system is fully compatible with bottled hydrogen but your engine is not! :(
For hydrogen you need very high compression and extensive engine work to get any good power and efficiency out of it. Without it your power is horrible and so is the fuel mileage! :(
But once your engine is set up to run efficiently on hydrogen it cant run gasoline ever again. It however will still run on propane though with a slight detune.;)

On a stock gasoline engine you will get typically poorer mileage and less power with propane, But not always. My Ford F250 has the Triton V10 engine and in order to meet emissions standards the factory has it so horribly detuned that propane is actually slightly better for power and near dead equal for mileage.
You do have to realize propane is only around 4.1 pounds per gallon and gasoline is around 6 pounds per gallon too. But propane has higher BTU's per pound than gasoline. ;)
So comparing miles per gallon is not an accurate comparison measurement. Cost per mile is and thats what your going for, a cheaper operating cost.;)

A full propane conversion requires your engine to have the compression raised from the stock 9:1 ratio to around 11:1 for best power and efficiency. Plus propane has a smoother burn rate and a bigger more aggressive cam will run smoother on propane too! :)
I built a Ford 460 cubic big block to run on propane some years ago and it got a typical 14 - 16 mpg (interstate driving at 75 mph) in a 1985 heavy half ton F150 and was pushing 400 hp! It rarely went under 10 mpg even while towing double its own weight too! :)
My 1999 F250 does about 10 mpg ( gas or propane) highway and about 4 -6 mpg (gas or propane) towing the same load on the same trailer with less Than 275 hp.
When the bank loan for it is paid off the 460 is going in the new pickup! :)

I have run three pickups of my own now with propane and have well over 150000 miles of personal driving experience with it and every pickup I will ever own will have propane as the primary fuel! :)
I have also did a number of dual fuel conversions for others and they too have had great things to say about the cost per mile being better and the engines do not wear out!;) Some say they see slight power losses on propane some dont.
I typically go 12000 miles between oil changes and the oil still comes out clean! Clean enough in fact I reuse it in my tractors! :D

Beware of the propane myths though!
Lean burning does not hurt your engine and valves. Your modern engine has hardened valves and valve seats and that has been industry standard for 40 plus years now.;)
Lean burn just bogs and looses power it actually will cool an engine down during extended bogging and the exhaust temperature will drastically reduce too!:D
It pretty hard to burn up something that cools down! ;)
Lean burning gasoline is what burns valves and does far more damage! :eek:;)
like most alternative fuels there are many detractors that will tell you bad stuff that they heard happened to a friend of a friend of a friend and therefore must be true! :eek::mad:
 
None of the commercial ECUs will be published if they are not obsolete.
However, you can take it apart and take a look if one is available.
We have recent accomplished successful on simulating the Subaru (Bosch) ABS CAN signal, here is some info:
**broken link removed**
 
Check with your town't library... larger cities often have a library capable of sharing on-line data bases for automobiles. Mine does and by simply logging in with my library card, I can access very good info. on my vehicle including detailed diagrams and service bulletins ... all for free! Forget Chiltons!
 
The town that has some good info. from a good library!
 
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