On the other website forum he is asking how to "repair" a pcb that is burned into charcoal.
In my last answer to this I was kind of dismissive, so I have had a think and come up with the following solution, if you find it hard to follow let me know and over the weekend I will do an INSTRUCTABLE with pictures and everything.
First you will need a angle grinder, for through hole components I recommend 9 inch and smd stuff 4 inch.
1. very very carefully place grinding disc (metal type not stone), on top of the highest component on the board, lock your arms tight and gently squeeze the grinder trigger. Soon as you hear full revs, press down very very hard! keeping the pressure to max move the grinder in increasing circles, do this until all sparks have stopped,and the only thing that is being produced is toxic dust.
2.) Carefully wipe clean with a rag and solvent, if there is any channels that have been cut into the pcb substrate, dont panic, these we can fill in later with poly filler or chewing gum.
3.)turn the board over and repeat steps 1 and 2.
4.) Fill any grooves in with polyfiller or chewing gum, if you cant find anything else use paper mache
5.) get a marker pen, crayon or in a pinch, a women's lipstick, now very carefully draw the circuit back on both sides, if you have trouble marking the dots to drill later do the following. Hold the pen/crayon/lipstick vertical (use a spirit level), just above the point you wish to mark, now gently lower untill the tip touches the now carbon free board, push down hard
6.) Have a rummage around in a skip or bin, find any old bit of cable. Cut the required lengths of track, using scissors or an old knife.
7.) Hot glue the lengths of wire into place on the board (every 8mm should be enough (for space or aircraft work use 5mm spacing, mil spec use 3mm), make sure you cut any spiky bits of glue that stick up!
now gently in a figure of 8 motion wipe over with the angle grinder.
8.) solder any components directly onto the wire traces, dont worry too much about values, just try and make sure the components you use are the same shape as the ones you removed (that way no one will know
)
9.) Now we have to test the new board, hook up to a PSU.
IMPORTANT Do NOT turn the psu ON!!!.
10.) While the PSU is off, probe all around the board with a Oscilloscope, be careful to avoid components and wire
. What you are looking for is a high Z zero reading of anything remotely electrical with funny symbols.
11.) repeat step 10 with Logic Probe
12.) Repeat step 10 with DMM
13.) Repeat step 10 with Analogue meter
14.) Once fully tested with all available equipment, carefully unplug from switched off PSU.
15.) as this is a high spec customer board, package carefully and dont forget the bow!
Any problems pm me and I will do instructable in pictures (easier to follow)
I forgot safety advice!!
Due to the toxic nature of some of the fumes, DO NOT INHALE, while repairing the board, hold your breath untill finished (approx 90 mins should do it).
If your unsure which end of the soldering iron to use, watch one of the tech's that sit near you, failure to do this will lead to burnt fingers.
Remember to plug the hot glue gun in, otherwise squeezing the glue out is hard work.
DO NOT FORGET TO ADD A QC STICKER TO FINISHED PRODUCT!!!