DIP and SIP are specific form factors, i guess you mean through hole components:
MMBT3904 : 2N3904
BAT54 : 1N5817 or similar
MMBD4148 : 1N4148 or 1N914
IRLML6402 : don't know of top of my head, this one is smaller than what i use
MMBT3906 : 2N3906
FDC6420C
you must read datasheets, they will tell you everything.
BJT = Bipolar Junction Transistor
RF = Radio Frequency
2N3904, 2N3906 are not the high frequency models but they can be used for some RF circuits, for example small FM transmitters.
1N4148 is a small signal rectifier diode (100mA).
1N5817, 1N5818 etc are schottky diodes (1A). note schottly diodes have low forward voltage drop (which is desirable) but also have low breakdown voltage of some 30V for example (not desirable).
google is your friend, just get datasheet for part of interest.
as for "equivalency", it is hard to speak of it when even components with same part number, from same batch, have wide tolerances (400% for example)
If this isn't production, you could always use a SMT to DIP conversion board. The DIP package is dying.
In that case, you can also use these guys: http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/
If you have a digi-key p/n, they will provide the part installed on the adapter.
Digikey also sells these: http://www.capitaladvanced.com/6000ser.htm
You can solder some of the simple SMD chips with fine 63/37 solder although using solder paste and an iron works as well.
I can post a pic of a board I did using the SIP thingy along with a Proto-advantage part if you want.
Proto-advantage does not put an orientation mark on their adapters.
When the pitch is fine, you pretty much need the solder mask which many of the adapters provide.
At a minimum, tack a few corners. Then turn the part UPSIDE DOWN. Run the iron along the pins with the part upside down.
Flux helps, but is not essential. The VERY FIRST SMD part I replaced was a processor in a car radio. That was painless with the upside/down trick.
For other SMD parts, you can use a tiny drop of superglue applied with a toothpick to the body.http://www.capitaladvanced.com/6000ser.htm
63/37 solder is a non lead-free solder with the same liquidus and solidus point.
At a minimum, you will need superglue, a small tipped soldering iron and 63/37 solder and an SMT SIP/DIP protoboard.
I really can't say what a "normal soldering" iron is. 25W, 1/8" chisel point?
For the SMT parts, I prefer a lower wattage conical tip iron.
I looked only one of the components your thinking about and it's had the "L" shaped lead. That should be the easiest to solder.
But, if your using 60/40 solder, it will be tough because you can "pull" the solder. 63/37 solidifies very quickly.
If you want a cheap iron, try this one: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/258.html
I would get the 402 and 405 tips as well. The 404 tip will probably work most of the time.
[quote-the OP]from look at the board, still need solder those SMD/SMT component to convert to DIP, might just solder to pcb without convert if can match on the back of PCB(copper side)
Don't know. I used a 1/8 chisel for thru-hole for the longest time, SMT requires a smaller tip. I use a Butane iron with a 1/8 tip for the big stuff and heat shrink tubing. I havn't lugged out my 100/140 W gun in years.
The ROHS solder needs a bit higher temperature. Herein lies the problems.
60 W is probably too big for thu-hole.
The tip size needs to basically match the pad size. That's why 1/8 inch is too big for SMT.
Big size doesn't matter much, if the SMT pad is 1/10 the tip size.
60 W is probably too big for thu-hole.
The tip size needs to basically match the pad size. That's why 1/8 inch is too big for SMT.
Big size doesn't matter much, if the SMT pad is 1/10 the tip size.
For soldering SMT passives I would agree, but I always use a ~1/8 tip for drag soldering IC's. I have soldered 200 pin 0.5 mm TQFP's this way, and flux (no clean flux pen) is absolutely essential.
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