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Equivalent SOT to DIP Component request

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Ragens

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Hi, I do not know if this is right thread for asking equivalent replacement component but is there any DIP that can match or replace the SOT list below?

MMBT3904
BAT54
MMBD4148
IRLML6402
MMBT3906
FDC6420C

please provide me with information each replacement with DIP socket, website, or even how to find the correct replacement without causing any trouble to the circuit when implement it.

Thank you.
 
DIP and SIP are specific form factors, i guess you mean through hole components:

MMBT3904 : 2N3904
BAT54 : 1N5817 or similar
MMBD4148 : 1N4148 or 1N914
IRLML6402 : don't know of top of my head, this one is smaller than what i use
MMBT3906 : 2N3906
FDC6420C
 
DIP and SIP are specific form factors, i guess you mean through hole components:

MMBT3904 : 2N3904
BAT54 : 1N5817 or similar
MMBD4148 : 1N4148 or 1N914
IRLML6402 : don't know of top of my head, this one is smaller than what i use
MMBT3906 : 2N3906
FDC6420C

Thank you for reply
ya that what i mean, SIP/SOT soldering tool quite expensive in my country so i just need to change component to DIP.

2N3904 is bipolar (BJT) single or bipolar RF?
1N4148 is Diode Rectifier or Diode Small Signal?
2N3906 is bipolar (BJT) single or bipolar RF?

IRLML6402 and FDC6420C do not have equivalent DIP?

sorry for asking too much i do not really understand their equivalent.
 
you must read datasheets, they will tell you everything.
BJT = Bipolar Junction Transistor
RF = Radio Frequency

2N3904, 2N3906 are not the high frequency models but they can be used for some RF circuits, for example small FM transmitters.
1N4148 is a small signal rectifier diode (100mA).
1N5817, 1N5818 etc are schottky diodes (1A). note schottly diodes have low forward voltage drop (which is desirable) but also have low breakdown voltage of some 30V for example (not desirable).

google is your friend, just get datasheet for part of interest.
as for "equivalency", it is hard to speak of it when even components with same part number, from same batch, have wide tolerances (400% for example)
 
you must read datasheets, they will tell you everything.
BJT = Bipolar Junction Transistor
RF = Radio Frequency

2N3904, 2N3906 are not the high frequency models but they can be used for some RF circuits, for example small FM transmitters.
1N4148 is a small signal rectifier diode (100mA).
1N5817, 1N5818 etc are schottky diodes (1A). note schottly diodes have low forward voltage drop (which is desirable) but also have low breakdown voltage of some 30V for example (not desirable).

google is your friend, just get datasheet for part of interest.
as for "equivalency", it is hard to speak of it when even components with same part number, from same batch, have wide tolerances (400% for example)

Thanks for reply, I search equivalent component through www.element14.com and https://www.digikey.com/

some time they give many result after search like i search 2N3904, 2N3906, it show 2 category which is bipolar (BJT) single or bipolar RF.
I can not find it equivalent component through the specification based on datasheet that why i ask here which is usable component without problem.

for IRLML6402 i found equivalent is BS250 but that not DIP packaging. For DIP i can not find P channel only N channel.
 
In that case, you can also use these guys: http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/

If you have a digi-key p/n, they will provide the part installed on the adapter.

Digikey also sells these: http://www.capitaladvanced.com/6000ser.htm

You can solder some of the simple SMD chips with fine 63/37 solder although using solder paste and an iron works as well.

I can post a pic of a board I did using the SIP thingy along with a Proto-advantage part if you want.

Proto-advantage does not put an orientation mark on their adapters.

When the pitch is fine, you pretty much need the solder mask which many of the adapters provide.

At a minimum, tack a few corners. Then turn the part UPSIDE DOWN. Run the iron along the pins with the part upside down.

Flux helps, but is not essential. The VERY FIRST SMD part I replaced was a processor in a car radio. That was painless with the upside/down trick.

For other SMD parts, you can use a tiny drop of superglue applied with a toothpick to the body.http://www.capitaladvanced.com/6000ser.htm

63/37 solder is a non lead-free solder with the same liquidus and solidus point.

At a minimum, you will need superglue, a small tipped soldering iron and 63/37 solder and an SMT SIP/DIP protoboard.
 
In that case, you can also use these guys: http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/

If you have a digi-key p/n, they will provide the part installed on the adapter.

Digikey also sells these: http://www.capitaladvanced.com/6000ser.htm

You can solder some of the simple SMD chips with fine 63/37 solder although using solder paste and an iron works as well.

I can post a pic of a board I did using the SIP thingy along with a Proto-advantage part if you want.

Proto-advantage does not put an orientation mark on their adapters.

When the pitch is fine, you pretty much need the solder mask which many of the adapters provide.

At a minimum, tack a few corners. Then turn the part UPSIDE DOWN. Run the iron along the pins with the part upside down.

Flux helps, but is not essential. The VERY FIRST SMD part I replaced was a processor in a car radio. That was painless with the upside/down trick.

For other SMD parts, you can use a tiny drop of superglue applied with a toothpick to the body.http://www.capitaladvanced.com/6000ser.htm

63/37 solder is a non lead-free solder with the same liquidus and solidus point.

At a minimum, you will need superglue, a small tipped soldering iron and 63/37 solder and an SMT SIP/DIP protoboard.

Thanks for reply, i do not know if i can manage buy from their website because the shipping price will be more expensive from the item itself.

if not cause trouble to you, please post some pic.

If i going to solder the SMD to PCB can it withstand the heat from normal soldering iron? it very small component, if i put some glue before soldering are not the glue will melt?

if not available in DIP package, is there any package with through hole pin?
 
The first pic is some of the stuff I had Proto-Advantage do for me. On the bottom row, there is part of an unassembled adapter. I bought a few to practice with.

It was tough getting and posting the pic of the SIP board. First time using Linux. Note the 0 ohm resistors. If you really look close, the component in the upper left corner is a SMT LED.

The glue is the Cyanoacrylic type. I'd use the thick variety. It is a gel or liquid that dries without air. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...W_TL94uV7apAcBzPqNxRrxw&bvm=bv.49478099,d.dmg All it does, is hold the component in place. It bonds instantly, but may give off some nasty fumes. You glue the body. Not the pads. The key is apply pressure while curing and apply with a toothpick.

I really can't say what a "normal soldering" iron is. 25W, 1/8" chisel point?

For the SMT parts, I prefer a lower wattage conical tip iron.

I looked only one of the components your thinking about and it's had the "L" shaped lead. That should be the easiest to solder.

But, if your using 60/40 solder, it will be tough because you can "pull" the solder. 63/37 solidifies very quickly.

Don't be afraid if it. Without the proper tools you will have problems, but if it's only a few FETS or transistors, I would not sweat it. Get a SIP board and put a few on it.

Learn how to read mechanical drawings.

I dont do a lot of SMT work, but I do have:

1. 63/37 solder.
2. I have solder paste,
3. I have glue
4. I have titanium tweezers
5. I have a low-wattge iron
6. I have a vacuum pick-up tool (was free)
7. I have a temp/controlled iron/hot air and vacuum solder sucker

I have yet to use a stencil or a toaster oven.

Removal: Cut the pins.
 

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I really can't say what a "normal soldering" iron is. 25W, 1/8" chisel point?

For the SMT parts, I prefer a lower wattage conical tip iron.

I looked only one of the components your thinking about and it's had the "L" shaped lead. That should be the easiest to solder.

But, if your using 60/40 solder, it will be tough because you can "pull" the solder. 63/37 solidifies very quickly.

i normally use 60/40 solder, for the iron i do not remember because i need new one, old one already damaged. It only 10 USD.

can you recommend that cheap and usable soldering iron which can solder both SMD/SMT and DIP package?

from look at the board, still need solder those SMD/SMT component to convert to DIP, might just solder to pcb without convert if can match on the back of PCB(copper side).
 
If you want a cheap iron, try this one: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/258.html

I would get the 402 and 405 tips as well. The 404 tip will probably work most of the time.

[quote-the OP]from look at the board, still need solder those SMD/SMT component to convert to DIP, might just solder to pcb without convert if can match on the back of PCB(copper side)[/quote]

I'd stick wit the SIP header. You can breadboard with it. You may be able to put a couple of transistors on it, The SMT pads will be easier to solder too. There are SMT breadboards. Use wire-wrap wire for interconnects.

Here https://www.circuitspecialists.com/202-0034-01.html is an unusual breadboard.
 
If you want a cheap iron, try this one: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/258.html

I would get the 402 and 405 tips as well. The 404 tip will probably work most of the time.

[quote-the OP]from look at the board, still need solder those SMD/SMT component to convert to DIP, might just solder to pcb without convert if can match on the back of PCB(copper side)

I'd stick wit the SIP header. You can breadboard with it. You may be able to put a couple of transistors on it, The SMT pads will be easier to solder too. There are SMT breadboards. Use wire-wrap wire for interconnects.

Here https://www.circuitspecialists.com/202-0034-01.html is an unusual breadboard.[/QUOTE]

okay, i go to electronic heaven in my country and can not find the soldering iron with variable temperature like you mention, they not even sell soldering iron tip. I found one dealer which got GaoJi Heating Tool soldering Iron 100 centi to 400 centi. Is this suitable to solder SMD/SMT and through hole?
 
Don't know. I used a 1/8 chisel for thru-hole for the longest time, SMT requires a smaller tip. I use a Butane iron with a 1/8 tip for the big stuff and heat shrink tubing. I havn't lugged out my 100/140 W gun in years.

The ROHS solder needs a bit higher temperature. Herein lies the problems.
 
Don't know. I used a 1/8 chisel for thru-hole for the longest time, SMT requires a smaller tip. I use a Butane iron with a 1/8 tip for the big stuff and heat shrink tubing. I havn't lugged out my 100/140 W gun in years.

The ROHS solder needs a bit higher temperature. Herein lies the problems.

it only 60Watt... are not the smaller tip cause slow melting solder?
 
60 W is probably too big for thu-hole.

The tip size needs to basically match the pad size. That's why 1/8 inch is too big for SMT.

Big size doesn't matter much, if the SMT pad is 1/10 the tip size.
 
60 W is probably too big for thu-hole.

The tip size needs to basically match the pad size. That's why 1/8 inch is too big for SMT.

Big size doesn't matter much, if the SMT pad is 1/10 the tip size.

that 60W can variable temperature 100 ~ 400 oC

FDC6420C is 2 channel mosfet, N & P channel.

Spec for N channel : Continuous Current Drain 3.0A, Drain-Source Voltage 20V
Spec for P Channel : Continuous Current Drain -2.2A, Drain-Source Voltage -20V

I found :

FDU8580 N Channel : Continuous Current Drain 35A, Drain-Source Voltage 20V

is this compatible?
 
60 W is probably too big for thu-hole.

The tip size needs to basically match the pad size. That's why 1/8 inch is too big for SMT.

Big size doesn't matter much, if the SMT pad is 1/10 the tip size.

For soldering SMT passives I would agree, but I always use a ~1/8 tip for drag soldering IC's. I have soldered 200 pin 0.5 mm TQFP's this way, and flux (no clean flux pen) is absolutely essential. I do a lot of SMT soldering (custom instrumentation), and I only use two tips these days. A 0.8 mm flat/wedge tip for SMT passives, transistors etc, and a ~3mm flat (**broken link removed**) for drag soldering and hefty TH parts. I used to use conical tips, but I find wedge/flat tips much easier (far more contact area) as you can get the job done quicker and nicer in my experience. Also, I used to get through 0.2 mm conical tips at a rate of knots on my Antex SD-50 (the 0.2 tips are not plated).

Drag soldering examples : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erb6-i54tbo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUyetZ5RtPs

Great and fast once you have got the hang of it. I would not solder IC's any other way now!

I agree on removal of parts, just cut the pins as close to the component body as possible with a very sharp scalpel. My old place used to have SMT removal tools, i.e. tips for the iron that follow the footprint for 14 pin SOIC etc. Always managed to remove a 30p IC, at the expense of ruining the PCB by lifting lots of pads off. Such tools are expensive and pointless in my opinion!
 
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For soldering SMT passives I would agree, but I always use a ~1/8 tip for drag soldering IC's. I have soldered 200 pin 0.5 mm TQFP's this way, and flux (no clean flux pen) is absolutely essential.

I second the recommendation of flux. Rich went on and on about these magic flux pen things and I mostly ignored him. Recently I added one to a Farnell order and now I wouldn't live without it for SMD.
 
okay i tired already looking for soldering iron with that specific recommendation. I borrow some soldering iron station and hot air blower from my uncle( I just know he got this thing).

may I know how to replace P-Channel Mosfet with N-Channel Mosfet in a circuit? I googling just found why N-Channel mosfet more popular, P-channel -ive supply, N-channel +ve supply.

most supplier in my country sell N-Channel Mosfet. I looking for Through Hole component in case i blow up my SMD component.

for example this IRLML6402(P-Channel) to Through hole Component with N-channel.

And what happen if I replace P-Channel Mosfet -20Vds -3.7A current drain with P-Channel Mosfet -30Vds -75A current drain?
 
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