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DIY pcb's

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ok, here is how the first one lookes ...i need more practice to get them better.....
 

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Hi bogdanfirst,

That looks pretty good to me.

I take it the parallel row at the bottom
is for a chip?
just trying to get an idea of scale.
9pin DIL ?

Hows that bit at the top,
where the track goes between two points?
is that ok?

John
 
Hi bogdanfirst,

ive just realised what that top bit is,
its a 'D' connector, right?

John
 
it is a serial port connector
and here is how i did it....
i printed the schematic to a normal printer but on high quality and resolution. i went to a xerox and copied it and asked for setting the machine on highter contrast and brightness so i get more ink. the paper was what they have, nothing special...
i ironed it starting with small temperature and getting to the hightest for about 5 minutes. i did it twice actually because the first time i didnt iron it well and the lines on the edges didnt come out good. then after i ironed it i put it in warm water and it made the sound like a hot objest in water. i left it for a few minutes to moisture the paper, then i rubber it off with my fingers and all that was left were the tracks. i put it in feric clorhide and it came out....
for cleaning the ink i used a cleaning powder(i couldnt believe it worked!!) and a piece of cloth.
that's it!
 
Hi bogdanfirst,

I take it you printed your schematic on your injet, then
got a copy from a laser copier on its darkest setting?

I have a Apple laser printer that i will have to see if
i can get working.

Many thanks for describing how you got on,
i will certainly be trying this next time i have to do
a circuit board.

Regards, John
 
well the first time i tried to print directly to a laser printer and then i tried it but the ink wesnt so great, it didnt come out as i expected. so i went and made a copy of it, not on the darkest setting but on the darkest possible so that i dont have dark page where it was normally white. but i think it works fine on normal too.
and this time worked well.
I will not be using markers ever again!!
 
Just a tought...bogdanfirst, is this a PCB for the JDM programmer? :)
Hope it works and that you have successfuly programmed the PIC.
 
yes it is...but now i dont have time to build it.....i hope it works too....still i have to get some pics first....
i am busy for some time but i think that ill start building it after easter....
 
I have not tried personally, but have seen it. Many PCB makers do it this way. Works great! with good accuracy.
 
the mechanical component is a bit more complex due to the use of an XY plotter, I suppose. do you think this is a feasable approach for the hobbyist ? It does have the advantge of fewer number of steps over the
toner transfer method.
 
yep, it does, but i dont think that it is too accessible for the normal hobbyist, though it will save a lot of time.....
but the disadvance is that you will not be able to make small lines and also big ones will be a problem too....
 
Has anyone thought of using a modified inkjet printer to print directly on to
a pcb. Instead of accepting a page the printer would be designed to accept
a bare pcb. I think something similar is used in professional electronics
prototyping industry. I vaguley remember seeing something similar in
an electronics magazine, EDN, I think so.
 
I make circuit boards with my router. I use this method for simple circuits with large components like loud speaker crossovers or power supplies. I purchased the router attachment for my Dremel Moto Tool. I use a small grinding bit and set the depth to just break thru the copper. For fine work I still use resist and acid.
 
your approach is similar to the LPKF PCB fabrication system. It has the advantage of no chemicals. Noisy and dusty though !!!
Since the LPKF system is based on a precise mechanical tools I think it
would be very costly.
 
i like the idea with the inkjet! maybe you can modify it but o dont think that the ink is good enough....to resist to chemicals
 
I've been thinking about it for some time. Three problems are there...

1) The ink would have to be speciallly formulated to be used as an
etch resist. Your right, inkjet ink is poor as an etch resist.

2) More serious problem. Paper is flat when its being printed on.
The bare PCB will most certainly not be flat. If you see the distance
between the paper and the print head, it is very small. The distance
in between the print head and the copper will vary due to dips and
peaks on the bare surface of the PCB.

3) Another ink problem is that it tends to splatter when shot out of
the cartridge. This is not noticeable on paper but would create a
problem if you wanted to print a PCB since the ink will sit on top of
the copper.

Any suggestions ?
 
and another problem, for inkjets you cannot print from the edge of the printer! you need a cenimeter or 2 of space so that will be a problem because you might need to print on small pcbs, and you will loose lots of material.
 
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