Charging a LiPo Battery

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It may work, but you need to be extremely careful how you set it up.
It's a high power charger mainly intended for big "brick" style battery packs for big drones, RC cars etc.

It needs to be set for one cell, 4.2V, and the lowest possible current, no more than 100mA - lithium cells can burst or catch fire if charged too fast or over charged...

It needs a 12V or 15V power unit (like a universal laptop power supply) to run it.

This is a commoner type that does the same thing, one I use, and the connections should be similar:

You need to connect an XT60 socket to the battery for the charge current, and probably also a "balance cable" (though with just one cell, there is no balance, only voltage monitoring).

It looks like the balance connector on that charger will not take less than a three wire (for two cells) connector, such as this:

From the look of the connector, for a single cell the outer black wire would be negative and the middle one positive.

Or if you intend to charge other / bigger batteries, you could get a mixed set such as this:


To he honest, the best and simplest approach for those tiny cells is a dedicated stand-alone module such as these:

Or for a cheaper of built-in option:

Wire a suitable connector to the output for the cell to plug in & use a USB cable to power it, or you can connect 5V to the pads next to the USB instead.

Or if you are intending to build a cell in to something, you could use one of these that included over-discharge protection - connect the cell to the B terminals and your project to the Out terminals.
 
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Thanks so much for your reply.

Maybe I should return the charger and get one more suited.

Please have a look at these chargers. I may have to reverse the polarity of their output for my use. I will study it more tomorrow during the day.

Thanks again. I was really confused.


 
I had a problem with this combination a few years ago where the polarity of the battery connector was the opposite of the charger. Can't remember details but it may be worth looking where you got the original batteries.

Mike.
 
Please have a look at these chargers.
Either of the first two should be OK; the third is probably too high current for the 250mAH cell, though OK for the larger one.

I'd suggest finding a socket to suit the battery and add a separate flying lead charge connection for that, if the battery must also connect to some other equipment. The charger boards have extra solder pads you can use to connect the socket wires the correct way around.
 

I am going to go with the second one only because I can not get the first one. They are back ordered. However, I do not think it has any indicator that tells me when the battery is fully charged.

How long will it take to charge a battery?
If I can add an indicator, please let me know.

Also, please note the battery socket. (see image) The ones I have are kind of flimsy and I would like to order some more heavy duty ones for my circuit boards.

Do you know where to get them and what they are called?

 
I do not think it has any indicator that tells me when the battery is fully charged.
It has a charge status LED in the top centre, plus pads near that to add an external status LED.

Also, please note the battery socket. (see image) The ones I have are kind of flimsy and I would like to order some more heavy duty ones for my circuit boards.

The common high-current and robust battery connectors are the XT30, XT60 & XT90; the number indicates the maximum current they can handle, with XT60 being commonest and very cheap. Continuous rating is about half that.
eg.



 
ps. Use the sockets on the battery packs and plugs on equipment - there is less chance of anything accidentally shorting that way.
 
They appear to be JST PH series.

These are the exact type as on the Sparkfun boards, other than colour; they are surface mount, not through hole:

This is the equivalent in an upright, through-hole fitting type:

Any type that starts B2B-PH should be compatible with the same small battery connectors, eg.

The problem you may have at the moment is finding places with them in stock at a sensible price!
 
I had a problem with this combination a few years ago where the polarity of the battery connector was the opposite of the charger. Can't remember details but it may be worth looking where you got the original batteries.

Mike.

I meant to get back to you about the polarity.

In my case, it was with a wireless phone battery pack.

Right now, I am waiting for all my parts to come so I can make a determination.
 

Thanks for the reply. I was looking for the more heavy duty type as shown in the photo. I could work with the surface mount type, but would prefer the through hole. Thus far I have not spotted them.
 
I meant to get back to you about the polarity.

In my case, it was with a wireless phone battery pack.

Right now, I am waiting for all my parts to come so I can make a determination.

The polarity of the batteries I have is the reverse of their charger and the batteries they sell.

Is there any standard on this?
 
The polarity of the batteries I have is the reverse of their charger and the batteries they sell.
I had the same problem and think (long time ago) I fixed it by swapping the JST connector on the batteries. You could also desolder the battery wires but they would then be the wrong colour.

Mike.
 
Thanks for the reply. I was looking for the more heavy duty type as shown in the photo.
The one I linked to is the exact one on the PCB, other than the colour option - an extra letter in the JST order code: S2B-PH-SM4-K-TB(LF)(SN)
(K added for black).

Through hole ones would be B2B-PH-KL for top entry or S2B-PH-KL for side entry.

The surface mount one is the most rugged as it has two extra anchor points built in to the sides of the body, whilst the through hole rely on the pins alone.
 

AH! Got it. Thanks.
 
I had the same problem and think (long time ago) I fixed it by swapping the JST connector on the batteries. You could also desolder the battery wires but they would then be the wrong colour.

Mike.

Thanks. For the time being, I will just make or, if I can, find an adaptor.

Still wondering if there is a standard. I find them both ways.
 
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