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can I program a 16F88 with this

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Thunderchild

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of I attatch the pdf of the programmer that comes with nigel godwins program, will it program the 16F88 ?
funny but there is not much info about them around everyone is raving about the 16F84 even though it is obsolete.
 

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Thunderchild said:
of I attatch the pdf of the programmer that comes with nigel godwins program, will it program the 16F88 ?
funny but there is not much info about them around everyone is raving about the 16F84 even though it is obsolete.

Yes, it will, the P16PRO40 will program all serially programmed PIC's, assuming you have software that supports them.
 
ok so looking at it it says that the 18 pin pics like the 16F88 should have pin 9 in pin 20 but this means that the wire that goes ONLY to pin one of the socket so not conects to the 16F88 hence I can remove that part of the circuitry right ? that would help as this is a matrix board thing as I have no access to pcb and even matrix costs the earth so it's going to be bloody small as well in fact the last 2 square inces I ravenged in the garage, anyhow the actual pic will not be on it so only the buffer ic and the descrete components


ok sorry I opened my trap i now see where else it goes too

erm no that is only a led

it looks like vpp are controlled diferently for 28 and 18/8 pin pics I could realy use saving that space
 
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Hi I could not agree more,

everyone is raving about the 16F84 even though it is obsolete.

Lets see the 16F84 has eerrrm...
Oh yes a timer!
A massive 1k of program memory and 68 bytes of ram.

whereas the 16F88 only has
USART, SSP, CCP, 2 analogue comparators, 7 ADC inputs and 3 timers.
4k of memory and 368 Bytes of ram

The choice is clear 16F84 :confused:

Oh yes the 16F88 costs less, has more pins available for use and an internal oscillator!!

To answer your question: If you only want to use the 18 pin part of the circuit then leave off the Vpp circuit associated with the 40/28 pin device that will save you some space.

Hope that helps

John
 
thanks imensly and when are those bloddy 16F84's going to be forgoten they all say don't use em but then make all the examples for them without thinking of the 16F88, only place I saw some consideration was nigels tutorials that use other pics but I'm not sure if compatible totaly or partly with the 16F88
 
Thunderchild said:
thanks imensly and when are those bloddy 16F84's going to be forgoten they all say don't use em but then make all the examples for them without thinking of the 16F88, only place I saw some consideration was nigels tutorials that use other pics but I'm not sure if compatible totaly or partly with the 16F88

They don't 'make' 18F84 examples, they are all from the last century, any 16F series (14 bit) programs are easily interchangeable.
 
well what is mean't by interchangable can any program for the '84 be used on the '88 as the '88 has all the 84 has and more,

if it is about having to change the code that is not fun for a novice that is still trying to get into them let alone adapting things
 
Thunderchild said:
well what is mean't by interchangable can any program for the '84 be used on the '88 as the '88 has all the 84 has and more,

if it is about having to change the code that is not fun for a novice that is still trying to get into them let alone adapting things

You might have to make VERY minor changes, and it's covered by the datasheets - if you can't make changes that slight then you shouldn't be playing with PIC's! (as you obviously don't have the slightest programming ability at all!).
 
I agree to an extent nigel, because the changes are generally pretty slight... but for someone who's completely new to it, it can be very easy to miss a few things. The datasheets do contain a lot of useful information, but when you don't know specifically what you're looking for they're not nearly as helpful. As a professor of mine (who taught courses involving PIC programming) once said, "once you can flash an LED you can change the world". 90% of the difficulty of a person's very first PIC project is often getting a SINGLE sign of life out of it, typically flashing an LED or something equally basic, because there's so many simple little things that can go wrong and cause it to do absolutely nothing.

Once you get it working in some capacity, then at least you can make gradual additions and changes to your code, and if it stops working at least you have the ability to go back to a known working state.

I know I'm preaching to the choir here with some of this, but you have to remember that it's not always quite as straightforward for beginners, mainly because of the multitude of things that can go wrong (especially if they're not starting with a nice, commercial development board with solid example code, and ideally, a book) Personally, I have done a lot of PIC programming, however I often go many months between projects, so I lose some of the familiarity; even after the many dozens of projects I've done, I still hit such roadblocks from time to time, and spend a half hour or an hour scratching my head over what usually turns out to be an incorrect bit in some configuration register, or something simple like that. A beginner would likely not even know where to begin looking.

I know you're very knowledgeable about PIC programming and I'm sure that just about everything involved in PIC programming and debugging is second nature to you, but I think a statement like you just made is a bit too belittling to an absolute beginner. Sure, I agree that if someone can't make such changes after they have some PIC programming experience under their belts, then they need to work on their programming ability some more, but for someone who is starting from scratch, with a homemade programmer and most likely wiring up the pic by hand on a breadboard or similar, it would not be unreasonable for them to have some difficulty if their very first program was one that they had attempted to convert to run on a different PIC than it was originally written for.
 
That's pretty well the reasons for the tutorials, proven working code on proven working hardware, no PCB's to make or order, simple veroboard layouts that anyone can easily construct.

As you suggest, a simple blinking LED program is always a good start, and that's how the tutorials start as well - I would suggest (and it seems pretty obvious to me?) that people get a 16F628, make sure the tutorial works, and THEN try changing to a 16F88 (or other PIC). They can then find out the trivial changes needed, secure in the knowledge that the hardware is tested and proven,
 
Well I was not doing too bad at pascal agt school so I guess I'll get there but it is difficult to get started and as I said and was reminded tonight by my local supplier matrix board is almost unobtainable and in italy I am not trusting to buying on the net with a credit card
 
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