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Boat trim indicator

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Techno

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I'm trying to build a multi indicator that will show
1: Outboards trim
2: angle of attack of the boat-boat trim
3: combining these two will show the true trim of the prop. The Outboards trim is referenced to the boat while the prop angle to the water is actually the needed item.
3 digital values in degrees. Negative to positive including the large but mostly useless trailer position.
Since dash space is at a premium and looks are important the size and looks of the thing are just as important as function. If I bought the componants its not only super expensive but totaly ugly and way too big. The display doesn't have to be mounted on the circuit board.

I did buy an OOpic which didn't get me anywhere. For such a simple thing it turned out to be way to complex to program. Trying to learn the programming put me to sleep.

I have an optical incremental encoder with index- an inclinometer and did try just a simple output to an LED display and that got me stumped. I was bread boarding it, it didn't work and have stopped for so long forgotten where I was.
This method is still possible but would lose the 3rd function- true angle of the prop. I could live with that as long as I could get the other 2 to work. I might not be using all the right componants-modules or chips? I had to guess what was needed.

Finding this site got me back onto the track of some kind of pic.

The things that are jamming me is what I need to do for the encoder to ouptut to a display. I'm not sure of the terminology so don't know if counting or what is needed. The information is out there as long as you know what they are called! I might not have gotten all the componants or the right ones for the breadboarding project.

Should I use a pic or just use circuitry?

If a pic what books or other newbie stuff should I start with? I did research this site and have read the FAQ on pics. Its a big start. Will go into it deeper if this is the suggested route.
I know absolutely no programming at all. The So called OOPic system probably is great if you can speak programming but was totally useless for someone without a clue, like me. I did try learning it but it uses terms that apparently are already known. At least that was my learning perspective trying to learn basic to do something that didn't say how to do it.

I can assemble blocks but can't make the blocks themselves. Whether its a circuit or a pic program. In other words I can follow a circuit but I can't produce it.

The idea was to put an inclinometer on the boat for boat attitude, possibly one on the engine cowl for engine trim this is easier, or this would be a gear driven encoder, which is much more complex from a cobbling point.
An inclinometer has the problem, for high acceleration, that it won't be reading trim. One of those compromise situations better if it could be eliminated but livable.

Encoders chosen mostly because pots have been used for trim angle in the past and don't really work well, although they haven't been built well either. They now have a bad rep so the encoders.
Presently trim with no real value (0-10) is done mechanicaly. No indication of degrees just a pointer on a number. No negative value for negative trim and no indication of zero trim. It provides nothing but a repeatable number, not a value. It doesn't read trailer postion at all since the gizmo disconnects at this large trim angle.

Also the company I bought the encoder from now produces a fairly cheap magnetic absolute encoder which I suppose would be better than the incremental since it would always show the tilt value without going to an index. This encoder can be bought as an analog ouput instead of the quadrature stuff. I could cobble it into an inclinometer or possibly buy it this way. It isn't sold as one now.
Thanks for putting up with my insane ingnorance.:confused:
 
Without me checking the boating parts catalogs I do remember seeing guages that indicate trim. They must be doing it far easier than using a PIC and software. U might want to investigate that route. Simpler is often better.
 
You can get a flat automotive fan motor at a junk yard cheap and they make a perfect gyro. The armature windings are smashed into a heavy copper disk. You can ad a flywheel if needed. If you use a pot as one of the gimbal bearings you will get an analog angle without the influence of acceleration.
Search for a summing or differential Op Amp circuit to give you the trim angle +/- the boat angle. You will have 3 analog voltages for a bag graphs or conversion.
 
what about using a 2 axis acceleromter? some heavy filtering would be needed but at least it would have no moving parts and could be easily sealed/water tight.
 
Thanks for the ideas but.
HiTech, There is only a factory trim system, which is a piece of junk. And the aftermarket mechanical I mentioned. It has many shortcomings the biggest in my opinion is it costs $700-800 for something that doesn't do all that much.
I'm also trying for bow angle which is something no one has and is pretty important at top speeds. Mine is also (hopefully) reading OB trim in actual degrees and in minus & plus and the trailer position which might be used in shallow water. The trailer position indication would be nice to see a number and tilt it to this value without guessing if its too high or not high enough. Also a warning before hitting the gas.

ClydeCrashKop I can't use a pot since they are considered crap in this function. The machine for indicating trim can be mechanicaly attached to the OB so acceleration isn't an issue for someone like a drag racer. For bow angle your idea is interesting but I think too complex for what I want to do. A gyrostabized thinger?

philba I'm not sure how an accelerometer would tell me angles? I'm lost on your idea.:confused:

Anyway I can get the sender- the encoder its just I'm a bit lost on the bits that go between this and the digital display. I could do a bar graph from the bargraph chip (lm3914) and let the leds display through an actual number window or printed sheet but the size is way to big for the scale I want.It would take 4-7 of the chips and need 40-70 LEDs. It eats up too much dash space. A digital takes up a small foot print and stays put in its display. Even a needle gauge won't work since the resolution for the first 10* is too small if you want 70-90* of indicated sweep.

The trim and angle of attack are both tuning aids. The 2nd doesn't exist...yet;) I probably should have mentioned this is mostly for my boat but since its probably going to be such a big job to make I figured I would market them. Mostly for high performance boats. Mostly I just want it for me.

**broken link removed**
My website which I haven't updated but gives an idea of the boat type.
 
an accelerometer will measure the acceleration of gravity as well as other movements. so if you take one and rotate it 360 degrees on one of its measurement axises, you will see that it goes from 1G (horizontal) to 0G (vertcal) to -1G (horiz, inverted) to 0G back to 1G. a 30 degree angle will give a reading of sin(30) or .5G. you will need to filter out vibrations and such.
 
I meant to use the pot as a pivot for the gyro gimbal. You could use an encoder disk on it instead. You could use a small motor with a flywheel that is heavy enough to make it stable. Easy to make. The illustration is a top view.
 

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ClydeCrashKop said:
I meant to use the pot as a pivot for the gyro gimbal. You could use an encoder disk on it instead. You could use a small motor with a flywheel that is heavy enough to make it stable. Easy to make. The illustration is a top view.

what kind of accuracy is needed? the encoder disk will need to be constructed with that in mond.
 
I think you're getting much too complicated. A curved tube with a steel ball in it will indicate the boat trim , put one to indicate fore and aft trim and the other to indicate list. The motor is fixed to the transom and so is directly related to boat trim.
 
That won't work simply because it is so simple. Sounds stupid but the speed is too high to read this type. It looks ugly and takes up waaaaaay too much dash space. Besides it still doesn't deliver the function I want. The outboard does tilt seperately from the boat. Some even jack up and down, seperately from the hull, thats a later indicator though.
I first considered a conductive gell , lasers on a window and a plethora of other gizmos.
How to read the positions isn't my problem! Its what do I do with the encoder info > to a something > to a something > to a digital readout? I would rather use a dot matrix mixing digital with analog. But what I would like to do and am able to do might not turn out to be the same thing.:D

The initial acceleration dies out fairly quickly. About 80 or so the boat isn't building speed nearly as much as before. I'm not too concerned about acceleration giving a bad reading since eventually it will dampen out.

As for accuracy I believe the inclinometer I have and the magnetic absolute encoder I would rather use for the tilt are waaaaaay more accurate than I'm going to need... about .2* should be fine. 1/2 would be fine, even just whole degrees but as I go larger the the gauge becomes the junk that is available today.
 
Hiya Techno,
Here's an idea for a tilt gauge and it won't be hard to build. Make up a small pendulam and put a hall effect sensor on the end of it ( the type that swing to 5 volts when a north pole is seen) then on a strip of plastic bent to suit the arc place some 3x3 neo magnets. So everytime the arm swings past a magnet a 5 volt pulse will be generatored. This could easily be counted by a pic and provide the info you need. The whole thing could be in a water proof box and be out of site. An idea for the outboard is just use a strain gauge, (see the robot store for them). now with some pic programming the 2 idea's could provide everything you're after.

I hope I've explained myself clear enough

Cheers Bryan:cool:
 
If you want a digital readout of the position of the ball in a tube or pendulam,same thing put a lamp behind a series of holes in an arc as the ball or pendulam swings it blanks of a hole detect the blanked out one and bingo it's converted to an angle. The motor when it's tilted doesn't need detecting does it, since it will be either fully up or down. The ball can be one from a bicycle hub.
 
I could keep picking apart the ideas for senders but I DON'T need sender ideas. I already have senders that are extremely accurate, dependable and are already built. Something I don't have to spend time in fabricating.
Neither of those would work.

What I need.
3 gauges that are very accurate, repeatable, and readable while going 100+ miles per hour. They have to look good- can't be ugly. Fit in the space available. One degree is a very small item to measure. It has to be magnified either with the measuring device or the gauge. Pull out your protractor and try reading one degree at the distance of your arm. You get only a glance to do this.
They also have to be all of like kind so they can comminicate with each other to a slight degree. The last function stated below.

The gauges are
Engine trim. This is referenced off the boat itself. It is the angle the engine is being tilted from the boat on its mounts. Engine trim is prop thrust angle from the boat.

Bow angle. This is an idea of my own and as far as I know no one else has it.
This is the angle of attack just like an airplane wing through the air. The function is exactly the same since my boat hull is an aerodynamic wing at speed. We're talking about a very narrow window of angles. Higher angles of attack result in more air drag. Lower angles result in less drag, more speed.
This is a tuning aid.

The true angle of the prop through the water. This is an efficiency thing. If its +45* you can see horsepower is being used to hold up the bow. If its zero degrees then all HP available is being used for propulsion... SPEED. This gauge also doesn't exist. This is also a tuning aid.
It is derived by subtracting the bow angle degrees from the engine trim degrees. IE. 4* bow from 6* trim = 2* loss of thrust.

My problem is what do I need to take quadrature output from an enconder. And ultimately read these into digital gauges or a single LED or LCD panel?

Here is the space available on my dash. The empty bezel on the right.
**broken link removed**
The top gauge is a smart cluster for the engine which I don't even have to look at. It has programmable alarm points. This one gauge does the whole engine.
The GIGANTIC center one is a GPS and its sole function is to display MPH in such a huge number I can't miss it, it also records top speed. Of course its also a GPS for when I'm going slow.
The 2 on the left are fuel level and depth finder, both of which really don't matter. I can't read those two at speed.

This is the new absolute magnetic encoder from https://www.usdigital.com
**broken link removed**
Notice how tiny it is.

And the indexable incremental inclinometer. Which I already have.
**broken link removed**

This is where I'm coming from. I have the wheel but not sure how to attach it to the axle. Or the axle to the cart.:D All 3 wheels need to be the same or the cart won't roll well.:rolleyes:
 
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