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Audio Splitter

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The Canakit "20W" amplifier uses two TDA2003 old amplifier ICs, bridged, that are not designed to be bridged.
The datasheet for the TDA2003 shows that with a 12V supply, the power at clipping into a 4 ohm speaker is only 3.3W. When two are bridged, the power is 13.5W. When the car battery is being over-charged at 14.4V the bridged power into 4 ohms at clipping is 16W.

The output power is 20W into 4 ohms at clipping when bridged is when the supply is about 18V.

Since the TDA2003 is not designed to be bridged, its amplifiers do not match and might produce DC current in the speaker of 400mA which heats the speaker and amplifiers. Maybe Canakit tests and matches them.

I would make an amplifier using the newer TDA7240A IC that has two matched amplifiers in a bridge.

Car amplifiers advertised at 25 (or 50) Whats per channel actually produce only 15 real Watts per channel.
Car speakers advertised at 25 (or 50) Whats blow up if the continuous power is more than only 15 real Watts.
 
Okay, if you could just send me to the right place that has the appropriate amps that I need, I'd appreciate it.
 
Simple bridged car amps are 15W into 4 ohms. Very complicated amps make higher power because they have a high power voltage stepup circuit powering them.
Did you look at the datasheet for the TDA7240A amplifier IC I recommended? It produces 15W into 4 ohms and the pcb design is in its datasheet.
 
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