About MPC82L52AT, an 8051-based microcontroller included in the hkts210sub/230 subwoofer amplifier board

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

Hello,

The hkts210sub/230 subwoofer had previously broken down while making the filter circuit, the sound was very low, the STA516B amp chip had broken down, and I also suspected the STA309A13TR chip, located slightly below the STA516B, had also replaced the defective 4 22UF 16V aluminum smd capacitors with a temporary normal 22UF 16V electrolyte capacitor in my previous checks until the new one arrived yesterday STA516BETR and STA309A13TR came first, I installed the STA516BETR chip, but I got low sound and power, as with the STA517B before, and then I changed the STA309A13TR chip, but again the sound was low and powerless, so Harman The Kardon AVR265 was too low and powerless at the sound level, the hkts210sub/230 amp floor has not changed, there is nothing left except the MPC82L52AT Megawin chip.
l need help about the MPC82L52AT, an 8051-based microcontroller included in the hkts210sub/230 subwoofer amplifier board how can I check that this chip is fully functioning, how can I program it if it is broken.
How can I get the hkts210sub/230 subwoofer to produce high and powerful bass sounds again, I would be very happy if you could help me solve this problem.

Best Regard

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

If the micro-controller is faulty, then your only option would be to obtain a ready programmed replacement from the manufacturer - however, micro-controllers are EXTREMELY reliable, and rarely go faulty.

You need to fault find, not randomly guess what might be faulty and change big IC's for no reason - for a start get a signal generator and an oscilloscope, and check the signal levels (at different frequencies) going into the power amplifier. That will instantly prove if the fault is before the power amplifier or not.

 

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

First of all, thank you very much for your answer, yes, you may be right, I agree, but I checked the power card, there is no problem with it, I changed the others except the MPC82L52AT chip on the amp card, if you remember, another problem I saw is that the subwoofer makes noise noise when I turn the audio pot half a turn to the right and left, but the audio pot does not do in the on and off position at the end, and I also measured the audio pot with a multimeter, so I suspect the MPC82L52AT chip, this chip is partially working, like led, standby automatic self-shutdown opening is working only the part going to the STA309A chip may be problematic, bass boost is not working! Harman kardon does not send the MPC82L52AT chip service, send it to us completely, we'll see, he says it will be too costly, so I have to solve this problem myself.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Like I said, fault find, don't just guess - audio generator, and scope - measure the signal going in the output amplifier at different frequencies, and see if you're getting the required bass boost/treble filtering. If you're getting that, them do the same at the input to the A2D converter.

Have you checked the voltage on the BASS pin of MPC82L52AT?, does it go high and low as you operate the Bass Boost switch?.

As I also said, micro-controllers are extremely reliable, and it's even more unlikely to be faulty if only some functions have stopped working.

 

[ahsrabrifat]

Hello,

The hkts210sub/230 subwoofer had previously broken down while making the filter circuit, the sound was very low, the STA516B amp chip had broken down, and I also suspected the STA309A13TR chip, located slightly below the STA516B, had also replaced the defective 4 22UF 16V aluminum smd capacitors with a temporary normal 22UF 16V electrolyte capacitor in my previous checks until the new one arrived yesterday STA516BETR and STA309A13TR came first, I installed the STA516BETR chip, but I got low sound and power, as with the STA517B before, and then I changed the STA309A13TR chip, but again the sound was low and powerless, so Harman The Kardon AVR265 was too low and powerless at the sound level, the hkts210sub/230 amp floor has not changed, there is nothing left except the MPC82L52AT Megawin chip.
l need help about the MPC82L52AT, an 8051-based microcontroller included in the hkts210sub/230 subwoofer amplifier board how can I check that this chip is fully functioning, how can I program it if it is broken.
How can I get the hkts210sub/230 subwoofer to produce high and powerful bass sounds again, I would be very happy if you could help me solve this problem.

Best Regard

If it's a DIP or PLCC version, you can read it (only if it’s not locked and not OTP). Use a universal programmer (like TL866II Plus).

 

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

Hello I searched for a universal programmer TL866II Plus, XGecu T48 I looked at universal programmers, but I couldn't find it in the chip compatibility list of these universal programmers, so I gave up buying it, only Top3100 universal programmer supports, I couldn't find this programmer, and the price is too expensive

http://www.xgecu.com/MiniPro/T48_List.txt

https://docs.rs-online.com/2241/0900766b814b5d52.pdf

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Hello I searched for a universal programmer TL866II Plus, XGecu T48 I looked at universal programmers, but I couldn't find it in the chip compatibility list of these universal programmers, so I gave up buying it, only Top3100 universal programmer supports, I couldn't find this programmer, and the price is too expensive

http://www.xgecu.com/MiniPro/T48_List.txt

https://docs.rs-online.com/2241/0900766b814b5d52.pdf

There would be no point anyway, as the micro-controller will almost certainly be read protected, as pretty well all commercial products are. And in the highly unlikely case the micro is faulty?, and that the chip isn't protected, you could well be copying the fault.

 

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

First of all, I'm not very professional and I've never had a universal program device before, and I didn't just measure logic signals with an oscilloscope, my goal was to copy that data to the MPC82L52AT chip if the data on the MPC82L52AT chip is not locked with the T48 Universal USB Programmer, which I want to do, and upload it back to the MPC82L52AT chip, which I'll buy a new one, I think this is difficult for now.
l couldn't find the MPC82L52AT chip with the used program installed before, or I couldn't find the complete amp card, the power card had failed before, I bought it completely new, this amp part never had maintenance and changing parts, finally (STA516B & STA309A) I just changed, but the problem hasn't been solved, so I concentrated on the MPC82L52AT chip, everything else seems normal, I just haven't measured the logic inputs and outputs with the oscilloscope for now,
my oscilloscope is not installed right now, I will install it and make measurements.

 

[rjenkinsgb]

I suggest you start with the analog signals in & out of the STA516?

If that was blown by a speaker circuit fault, it would make sense to verify all the components involved with the output filters between the amp IC and the speaker?

Is the amp IC getting equal and opposite audio at two of it's inputs? Are both speaker output terminals being driven and have equal and opposite voltages ?

As Nigel has said, it is extremely unlikely that a fault at the audio IC would damage the MCU (or anything much in the input side of the amp).

 

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

Let me tell you exactly what I did wrong from the beginning, I removed the TL072 Opamp from this subwoofer and replaced it with the opa1656 opamp because it would have been nicer, it played Decently, but when I put my ear closer to the subwoofer speaker, other sounds besides bass sounded, I connected a 22ohm 5w series between the subwoofer + and connected a parallel 100uf 400v capacitor my goal was to get only bass sounds, but after a few attempts, the sound from the subwoofer is very small and lifeless it's starting to sound puny, and this speaker cable was coming directly to the STA516B amp chip after the plastic capacitor and the 2 filter coils, the line was coming directly to the STA516B amp chip, I said this amp chip is definitely broken, and I'm in it and I took a new one and put it in, the sound improved a little, but the level and power are broken again. it's not on the same level as the stereo amplifier, then I replaced the STA309A chip located underneath, but not much has changed, the subwoofer also makes a buzzing sound when the bass boost switch turns half a turn, the volume is too low and the bass is too weak, Finally I suspected the MPC82L52AT chip and concentrated on it, this is how the problem occurred from start to finish.

 

[rjenkinsgb]

You have not described the extra resistor and capacitor connections clearly, but if you connected 100uF across the speaker terminals then the STA 516 would effectively be shorted out and the inductors could have been overheated and damaged.

There is no way that in itself could damage the earlier parts of the circuit.

If any of the three switches has any effect, then the MCU is functioning and passing data to the STA309. The MCU does not handle audio.

If the amp IC is damaged, the DC Protection circuit could be commanding a mute.

A shotgun approach rather than proper diagnosis is more likely to cause harm than get anything working.

Do the tests I said above and also measure the DC voltage on each speaker output terminal.

ps. If the bass level/volume control VR1 causes buzz, the entire amp is likely working - other than the opamp you changed?

 

[Ian Rogers]

Even so. That chip similar to the Phillips I used to use has ISP and IAP. that means the the flash will definately be locked.

Even if you take off the board and use a parallel programmer it will not read. First. connect a programmer in ISP mode and try to read it. ( In System Programming) You'll need P1 ( all pins) and the reset pin.
Its pretty much the same as the Atmel range. The AT89c2051 is an SOIC 20 pin .

 

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

MPC82L52AT TSSOP20 yours may sound big in the case, I'll find the MP MPC82L52AT chip from Aliexpress, the worst possibility, but the next chip will come hollow and without a program, this will not do me any good, I'm also throwing a representative picture of the speaker flitter process I did (22ohm 5w resistor connected in series to the speaker cable + line and I connected a 100uf 400v capacitor parallel between the + line and - line, artificial intelligence recommended it.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Why would you expect artificial intelligence to know anything about audio design?, that looks a really stupid idea - it's already a sub-woofer, it already contains the exact required filtering to match the speaker and cabinet design. You probably blew the amplifier by doing that.

Likewise, changing the opamp - why? - it already used a perfectly good quality opamp, changing it will make not the slightest bit of difference to the quality, it's only a sub-woofer, qualify isn't much of a concern, and wouldn't be in a full amplifier either, a TL072 is a perfectly acceptable opamp, particularly at line levels.

 

[Serkan_HOTEN_34]

yes, you're right, it's a stupid idea to follow the advice of artificial intelligence, by the way, when the subwoofer Decayed, it had OPA1656 on it, I changed the STA516BETR amp chip, then I put back the TL072 opamp on the original one again, but nothing changed, the sound continued to be low and the bass was rickety, even though I had another hkts210sub/230 amplifier, first I changed the complete amp part and then changed the MPC82L52AT chip and i would try.