A somewhat odd project.

[LAW88]

ok, there's 12V across the killswitch circuit. I can't find the sidestand circuit (previous owner removed it) so I'm using the circuit from the switch on the handlebar.
The bike is in "run" when the circuit it closed, unfortunately I can't start it right now because the engine is all over my garage floor so I don't know how many Amps when it's running.

 

[MrDEB]

Debouncing had better be included BEFORE the op decides to build. If the switch is bouncing after the gear change , there goes the whole project in the dump.
A micro switch that is activated upon movement of the shift lever should work as there is some movement before the gears are actually shifted. Just enought time to kill the motor.
To bad a transmission like the Pro Stockers use, shifting at 10,000 RPM without using the cluitch.

 

[xpi0t0s]

It may be simpler just to practice and perfect the technique. I use this when accelerating to maximise use of the available power: put a little pressure on the gearshift but not enough to knock it out of gear, then just blip the throttle down a bit and it should just click through. You don't have to shut the throttle off completely, just enough to take the pressure off the gears so that it can click up to the next one. Don't use it all the time though (you won't be able to cos it only really works for straight-line accelerating), and definitely don't try to use it when downshifting. Also be aware this puts extra strain on the gearbox so only use it when you need to. An electronic solution might shave a few milliseconds off an upshift but unless you're track racing this difference won't be noticeable. Plus you're messing with a highly tuned system and possibly some safety critical components too which you don't want to be doing unless you really know what you're doing.

 

[bychon]

shiftSwitch

Sorry about the delay in replying. Standard Florida plague: Relatives from "up north".

PDF is basic layout. Many parts and connections not completed.

How it works: Fuse, coil, capacitor protect voltage regulator from nasties on the battery wire. Voltage regulator is set to provide +10 volts and protect all other parts from voltage nasties. When started, 10k and 1k charge up the first capacitor. The 10k resistor forces a delay of 3 or 4 tenths of a second after the lever switch is released (open). When shift lever switch closes, Cap charge is dumped to ground. This pulls down the voltage at the trigger input. The 1k resistor delays refilling for 5 or 10 milliseconds so the 555 chip has time to recognize the command. When the 555 recognizes the command, the output goes "high" and it times out 33 to 198 milliseconds using the 1k, 5k, and 33uf capacitor. Meanwhile, the MOSFET was "on" all the time. The 10 volt output of the 555 chip tells the little transistor to dump the gate voltage of the MOSFET. The MOSFET turns off, opening the ground on the "G" terminal of the spark module. The shift lever continues upward and shifts the gears. The shift lever is released and the first capacitor takes 3 or 4 tenths of a second to re-fill. Then the circuit is ready for the next shift.

I think this will work, but I expect several people will have comments about it.

 

[Mikebits]

What type of bike is this? I ride a 2 stroker out at our local desert and I power shift often with no ill side effect. I often shift down into a tight berm and keep the throttle WFO (Wide full open) to stay in the power band. The thought of messing with the bike electrical system just makes me cringe. I often power shift (No clutch) up with no problem.. I do clutch it when down shift. I really think the possible problems that may arise outweigh any benefit of messing with your system. I dunno, I would not mess with a finely tuned design as my RM250 has. All I can say is Yipes...

 

[bychon]

The schematic posted in #6 identifies this bike as a Suzy RGV250. My nephew confirms this modification as something that is available for retail $600 U.S.

 

[bychon]

First correction: Pin 3, the output of the 555 chip, needs a resistor to limit the current to the dump transistor. The size of that resistor will be determined after a transistor is chosen because the current needed to dump the charge depends on the quality of the transistor.

 

[shortbus=]

Back in the old days guys that didn't just blip the throttle to shift, added a auxiliary SPST push button switch ( AKA as a horn switch). Mounted to the handle bars by the clutch lever and wired parallel to the normal kill switch. Just stab the switch with the thumb instead of pulling in clutch, to up shift. Most guy's didn't bother, just used Mikebits method.

 

[bychon]

Some guys did bother...and now they are collecting $600 for each kit.