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A hard to resist problem

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Also what about playing the guitar/music are you finding hard? I might be able to help or at lest give you some info that might point you in the right direction.

It's not the playing bit. I can sort of do all the technical stuff, chords finger picking etc, but I have no sense of rhythm and am tone deaf. I am also word blind: to me thsi looks just like this. Thanks for the offer though. I'm happy with the odd twang now and then and I also just like guitars- they are nice to have around. I would get about ten given a free hand. I have a Yamaha steel string acoustic and a Crafter Strat copy, also a 10W practice combo. The Yamaha is now 36 years old and has melowed into a nice tone, especially with new strings, but not in the Martin D28 class. The Crafter, was only £120UK, and is the best Strat copy I have found, no where near an original Strat though. The next moves are, Tele, Ovation, Gibson ES355, all copies.

A friend, who has half an acre in the country, has guitars all over the place. He plays bass in a couple of bands and is nothing short of a genius- writes music, plays acoustic, electric, keyboards, violin. He also makes guitars and builds amps and pedals. And to cap it all, in his spare time, he repairs amps etc as a side-line. Just like with hifi, there was a gang of us who had interests in music. I was the only one who could not play.

In Bristol, 20 miles away, there is a fantastic pub called the Old Duke which has a stage. Most nights they have a jazz/ blues band and, if not, passing musicians drop in and do a turn- some famous names. The music is loud, loud. The Duke is very basic, and is heaving with all types: students, solicitors, couples, even old dodgers like me- you literally cannot move. It’s dead handy when you have had a few, especially their Old Rosie cider which is 7.3%, because there is no chance of falling over. Better not go alone to the Duke though, because there are many women who may take advantage- a chap can never be too careful!
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The Landogger Trow, across the courtyard, is the same except heavy metal, rock, punk etc.



IMG_211220_2014_04_26_Old_Duke_Bristol_709pix.jpg
 
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Its not the playing bit. I can do all the technical stuff, chords finger picking etc, but i have no sense of rythem and am tone deaf. I am also word blind: to me thsi looks just like this. Thanks for the offer though. I'm happy with the odd twang now and then and I also just like guitars- they are nice to have around. I would have about 10 given a free hand. I have got a Yamaha steel string acoustic and a Crafter strat copy.
Ah okay. Are you dyslexic? I am and it sounds like you have some of the same issues that I have like with spelling but my biggest one is abstract ideas with math and English (Which makes me wonder why I like them so much). But I digress do you think the multymeter I linked to you is a good starter one? KeepItSimpleStupid said it was missing a bar graph display but I'm not sure if I will need it at this point.
 
Not a bad multimeter.
It has auto-off which is good.
Accuracy specs are crummy - not a real problem
Lacks a bar graph display - Useful at times
Not TRMS - not a big deal
Non-standard input Z (7.8 M vs 10 M) - dunno
They don't list the voltage burden for current

Biggest missing part is lack of a bar graph display. Best good part is auto-off and auto/manual ranging.
Would I need a bar graph on my multimeter since I am really new to this?
 
The bottom line is you need something to start with and it's always good to have something cheap too. Here's https://www.keysight.com/main/redir...509EN&ltype=LitStation&ctype=EDITORIAL&ml=eng some of the cream of the crop hand held meters. Keysight is the recent split from Agilent and originally Hewlett-Packard.

First, accuracy blows the other instrument away. Specifications are much more detailed.

We do need to discuss what's meant my TRMS because of your interest in audio, TRMS means True RMS. Essentially it means give me the equivalent DC voltage that would result in the same power dissipation in a resistor. The spec includes a frequency component accuracy and usually a "crest factor".

Non TRMS meters precision rectify the "assumed sine wave input", average it and multiply it by a constant. This means that 120/240 VAC at 50/60 cycles measures right and possibly not much else.

So with a decent TRMS meter you can possibly measure the frequency response of an amplifier.

==

Many TRMS meters allow you to separate and combine the DC and AC portions of a waveform.

==

Datalogging is basically a way to help you find intermittent failures.

==

Current is done poorly on most handheld meters. There is always a voltage burden and that has to be taken into account. There is a type of ammeter called a feedback ammeter that usually is for lower currents. It's burden could be less than 0.001 V.

==

I find the bar graph useful, but it does not substitute for a scope.

==

This https://www.banggood.com/DIY-Meter-...ESR-Inductance-Resistor-NPN-PNP-p-929603.html has gotten some rave reviews here on ETO

==
 
The bottom line is you need something to start with and it's always good to have something cheap too. Here's https://www.keysight.com/main/redir...509EN&ltype=LitStation&ctype=EDITORIAL&ml=eng some of the cream of the crop hand held meters. Keysight is the recent split from Agilent and originally Hewlett-Packard.

First, accuracy blows the other instrument away. Specifications are much more detailed.

We do need to discuss what's meant my TRMS because of your interest in audio, TRMS means True RMS. Essentially it means give me the equivalent DC voltage that would result in the same power dissipation in a resistor. The spec includes a frequency component accuracy and usually a "crest factor".

Non TRMS meters precision rectify the "assumed sine wave input", average it and multiply it by a constant. This means that 120/240 VAC at 50/60 cycles measures right and possibly not much else.

So with a decent TRMS meter you can possibly measure the frequency response of an amplifier.

==

Many TRMS meters allow you to separate and combine the DC and AC portions of a waveform.

==

Datalogging is basically a way to help you find intermittent failures.

==

Current is done poorly on most handheld meters. There is always a voltage burden and that has to be taken into account. There is a type of ammeter called a feedback ammeter that usually is for lower currents. It's burden could be less than 0.001 V.

==

I find the bar graph useful, but it does not substitute for a scope.

==

This https://www.banggood.com/DIY-Meter-...ESR-Inductance-Resistor-NPN-PNP-p-929603.html has gotten some rave reviews here on ETO

==
Ah okay thanks for clarifying. I probably won't be able to get something like that for a long time as I'm still a student at the moment trying to get into mechanical engineering and can't work for a little bit but I'll definitely keep it in mind for later on down the track
 
Ah okay. Are you dyslexic? I am and it sounds like you have some of the same issues that I have like with spelling

lexdyslic yes; I could not read a page of text until around 7 years old- it was too much of a strain.

but my biggest one is abstract ideas with math and English (Which makes me wonder why I like them so much).

Same here. I can only deal with abstract ideas by making them real in my mind, I still can't handle j (i). The idea of the root of a negative number is beyond me.

... do you think the multymeter I linked to you is a good starter one? KeepItSimpleStupid said it was missing a bar graph display but I'm not sure if I will need it at this point.

A bar graph meter is very useful to see varying signals. A traditional moving coil meter with a needle is much better than a digital meter in this respect.

As you progress along the electronics path you will own both digital and analogue meters. You are lucky, when I was in your position analogue meters cost the earth and digital meters cost the universe.

The meter that you posted would be very useful and, at the price, you could buy it without further thought but, it has limitations which may frustrate you quite soon.

When I bought my digital meter in the 1970s, I went for better than average performance and, by shopping around, paid way below average price (because it was made in Hong Kong). I am still using it now, 40 years later, and rarely found it limiting.

Here is the specification I suggest you should aim at [my meter deviates as indicated in square brackets]:

Display type: LCD
Display character height: 12mm minimum
Number of digits: 3.5 (1xxx) minimum
Battery: PP3 (9V), AAA or AA (preferably not button cell like CR2023)

Accuracy:
DC voltage, DC current, and resistance +- 0.5%, +- one digit.
AC voltage, and AC current +-1% +- one digit up to 100Hz. Some kind of accuracy to 10KHz
Input impedance:
VDC: 1M Ohm min. 10M Ohm desirable
VAC: 1M Ohm min
Current burden: the lower the better- rarely specified on low cost instruments

Ranges:
Voltage DC & AC:
20mV [no]
200mV
2V
20V
200V
500V (limited for safety, and practical aspects) [1KV DC, 750V RMS AC]

Current DC and AC
20uA [no]
200uA
2mA
20mA
200mA
2A
10A, 20A desireable

Resistance
20 Ohm [no]
200 Ohm
2K Ohm
20K Ohm
200K Ohm
2M Ohm
20M Ohm

A diode test, using one of the resistance ranges, would be desirable but not essential. Same for a transistor test.

Make sure the meter has large solid terminals or you will have inaccuracies when measuring high currents and low resistances.

Unless you buy a pro class meter, like a Keithly/Fluke/Brymen, the leads supplied will be no good. No worries; they will be OK to start but you will be replacing them in the future with thick flexible custom made meter leads and clips

Bit of lecturing about your meter:
(1) A meter is your right hand- take great care of it.
(2) Keep it in a case (my portable instruments live in a briefcase)
(3) Never lend your meter
(4) Always leave the meter switched to off and set to a high voltage range; never, never current or Ohms.
(5) Keep your meter spotlessly clean
(6) Fit rechargeable Panasonic/Sanyo Eneloop batteries (not available for PP3) and have an appropriate smart battery charger available
(7) Meters normally have 2A to 3A fuses: make sure you know where the fuse is (it is not always obvious and on some meters you have to dismantle the case to get access).
(8) Get some spare fuses and keep them with the meter
(9) Keep the multimeter warm and dry- humidity may stop it working completely, or affect the accuracy.
(10) Every 3 months or so exercise all the switches about three times to keep the switch contacts clean- not necessry with a top-line instrument which has expensive contacts. (my meter will not turn on if I don't excersise the on/off switch)
(11) Every year for PP3 batteries inspect for corrosion and disconnect and reconnect a few times to clean the contacts. The female contacts on the battery and meter may need to be bent in slightly to restore the tension (very poor design). With cylindrical batteries also check for corrosion, but spin the batteries to clean the contacts (do this with TV etc remote controller batteries too).

A pro Keithly/Fluke/Brymen multimeter for around £320 UK would do the above with a 0.1% accuracy and no bother. It would be the equivalent of a US pre CBS Strat. But I am not suggesting that you should spend that kind of money. Instead, I think you should be able to get a very good multimeter, like I have, for around £30 UK (the price I paid in the 70s), the equivalent of a good Strat copy.

On the other hand get this or similar to start: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Mu...qid=1451344157&sr=8-40&keywords=multi+testers

As a final note, one thing you can do if you buy a second-line, but basically sound multimeter say with 0.5% accuracy, is calibrate it youself- not so easy these days with surface mount though.

 
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Leads

You will probably have to get better leads. You'll need at least these: https://nz.element14.com/pomona/595...ll+Categories&categoryNameResp=All+Categories

The extend-able tip is almost mandatory.

Here's https://nz.element14.com/pomona/5677b/test-lead-kit-dmm-muliuse/dp/4136135 an expensive kit.

Test probes come in shrouded banana and banana and even retractable banana. The purpose of the latter two is so the ends don't get exposed. With circuit troubleshooting, you invariably have a lead clipped to common and probe places.

Test probe wire is super flexible and generally has a silicon insulation. You can buy the wire separately.

==

While we're at it there is low stranded wire (e.g. 7/22) which is less flexible. That wire would be composed of 7 strands of 22 AWG and have an equivalent gauge specified. Made up numbers. Litz wire is extremely flexible. Test probe wire is a lot like older telephone wire. Spiral wrapped around a flexible core.
Try to alway get tin plated wire. Many times it's not specified. Bare copper is found in automotive. Silver plated is found with Teflon (PTFE) insulated wire.
Any soldered wire connections need to be be cleaned to remove flux. Silver is more conductive than copper. I've worked on RF transmitters where silver plated copper tubes were used with a good reason for doing so.
 
I guess what I should do then is get a multimeter. Do you think this one would be good ( https://www.jaycar.co.nz/Test-&-Measurement/Multimeters/Digital/Cat-III-Multimeter-with-Temperature/p/QM1323 ) to get me started or is it something that I need to spend a bit of money on?
Looks good
K-Type Thermocouple is useful for a wide range -20°C-760°C
Counter measures to 1kHz to 10MHz good for basic stuff
Cap meter also good for basic stuff 4nF ~ 100µF full scale 3%
Includes Counter to 4k and duty cycle.
Data hold
• Relative measurement ( very useful)
 
lexdyslic yes; I could not read a page of text until around 7 years old- it was too much of a strain.



Same here. I can only deal with abstract ideas by making them real in my mind, I still cant hadle j (i). The idea of the root of a negative number is beyond me.



Same here again. I can only deal with abstract ideas by making them real in my mind. I still can't handle j (i). The concept of the root of a negative number is beyond me.



A bar graph meter is very useful to see moving signals. A traditional moving coil meter with a needle is much better than a digital meter in this respect.

As you progress along the electronics path you will own both digital and analogue meters. You are lucky, when I was in your position analogue meters cost the earth and digital meters cost the universe.

The meter that you posted would be very useful and, at the price, you could buy it without further thought, but, it has limitations which may frustrate you quite soon.

When I bought my digital meter in the 1970s, I went for better than average performance and, by shopping around, paid way below average price (because it was made in Hong Kong). I am still using it now, 40 years later, and rarely found it limiting.

Here is the specification I suggest you should aim at [my meter deviates as indicated in brackets]:

Display type: LCD
Display Character height: 12mm minimum
Number of digits: 3.5 (1xxx) minimum
Battery: PP3 (9V), AAA or AA (preferably not button cell like CR2023)

Accuracy:
DC voltage, DC current, and resistance +- 0.5%, +- one digit.
AC voltage, and AC current +-1% +- one digit up to 100Hz. Some kind of accuracy to 10KHz
Input impedance:
VDC: 1MOhm min. 10M Ohm desirable
VAC: 1M Ohm min
Current burden: the lower the better- rarely specified on low cost instruments

Ranges:
Voltage DC & AC:
20mV [no]
200mV
2V
20V
200V
500V (limited for safety, and practical aspects) [1KV DC, 750V RMS AC]

Current DC and AC
20uA [no]
2000uA
2mA
20mA
200mA
2A
10A, 20A desireable

Resistance
20 Ohm [no]
200 Ohm
2K Ohm
20K Ohm
200K Ohm
2M Ohm
20M Ohm

A diode test, using one of the resistance ranges, would be desirable but not essential. Same for a transistor test.

Make sure the meter has large solid terminals or you will have inaccuracies when measuring high currents and low resistances.

Unless you buy a pro meter, like a Keithly, the leads supplied will be no good. No worries; they will be OK to start but you will be replacing them in the future with thick flexible custom made meter leads and clips

Bit of lecturing about your meter:
(1) A meter is your right hand- take great care of it.
(2) Keep it in a case (my portable instruments live in a briefcase)
(3) Never lend your meter
(4) Always leave the meter switched to off and set to a high voltage range, Never never current or Ohms.
(5) Keep your meter spotlessly clean
(6) Fit rechargeable Panasonic/ Sanyo Eneloop batteries (not available for PP3) and have an appropriate smart battery charger available
(7) Meters normally have 2A to 3A fuses: make sure you know where the fuse is (it is not always obvious and on some meters you have to dismantle the case to get access).
(8) Get some spare fuses and keep them with the meter

A pro Keithly multimeter for around £320 UK would do the above with a 0.1% accuracy and no bother. But I am not suggesting that you should spend that kind of money. Instead, I think you should be able to get a very good multimeter, like I have, for around £30 UK (the price I paid in the 70s)

On the other hand get this or similar to start: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Mu...qid=1451344157&sr=8-40&keywords=multi+testers
The one that you linked me to won't ship to New Zealand but I will look for one that fit's your description now and then link it to you
 
This https://www.circuitspecialists.com/rugged-precision-mastech-ms8340a-dmm.html isn't that bad in my opinion.

I think I got something similar to this https://www.circuitspecialists.com/digital-multimeter-csims8264.html free if I remember. The lack of auto-range is the most annoying.

I bought the Fluke 77 back in the 70's. e.g. a version of this: https://www.brltest.com/index.php?m...ucts_id=1703&gclid=COaTlvX8_8kCFYQYHwodXCEH1Q probably when I was in your shoes. It's not even close to what's available now.

Previously, I had owned an analog FET meter from Eico that was put together from a kit. 3x9V as a power source and a 1.5 V D cell and line operated.
prior to that an analog 50K ohms/V meter. Back then the VTVM or Vacuum Tube Voltmeter was desired. A tube tester that I have requires an analog (e.g. 50K ohms/V) meter to calibrate.

I even have something similar to this: https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html (Rebranded) I also got free, No auto-off, but it tests batteries. I just wrote the numbers down for others, like the CR2032, LR44 etc.

So, the component tester (I can look for the thread here), a reasonable meter and upgraded test leads.
 
The one that you linked me to won't ship to New Zealand but I will look for one that fit's your description now and then link it to you
That was only an example advert. That very multimeter is available from all over the place, Ebay probably. It will be under differnt names/ badges too- they are all made by the same maufacturer though.
 
That was only an example advert. That very multimeter is available from all over the place, Ebay probably. It will be under differnt names/ badges too- they are all made by the same maufacturer though.
Ah okay. I was looking around other places and with the price of shipping along with exchange rate it's not worth ordering it but I did find this one in jaycar that almost fits your discription to a 'T' https://www.jaycar.co.nz/Test-&-Mea...ranging-Cat-IV-DMM-with-Wireless-USB/p/QM1571
it's probably the most I would like to spend on one at this time.
 
Ah okay. I was looking around other places and with the price of shipping along with exchange rate it's not worth ordering it but I did find this one in jaycar that almost fits your discription to a 'T' https://www.jaycar.co.nz/Test-&-Measurement/Multimeters/Digital/IP67-True-RMS-Autoranging-Cat-IV-DMM-with-Wireless-USB/p/QM1571
it's probably the most I would like to spend on one at this time.
Nice machine but too expensive and fancy facilities which you do not need. Hold for the minute-I am hitting the hay now but will have a look on the net tommorrow (today). Should be able to get a good multimeter with free post and packing.
 
For what it's worth I am going to chirp now...

People are welcome to shoot me down. I am cool with that:)

Anlalogue VS Digital: In my experience for day to day repairs...Analogue never lies.....gotta understand what the meter is showing/telling you....no beep beep here or beep beep there. Silence and accuracy is the Analogue way. Gotta understand what it's telling you though. Wax that and you are good to go.

Digital is brilliant for new designs where you are looking for set up accuracy....need 10.00 V exactly.....DMM delivers. My Fluke 77 is around 30 years young now.....best tool I ever bought. I saved all my money as a 21 yr old and purchased the best tool ever.

But every tool has its usefulness. I guess it's all about how you understand and use your tools :)

So, as an old repair Guy who has seen all, and I mean all.....Analogue does it for me:)

New design=use Digital. Repairs=Analogue.

Put that in your hat and sleep on it:)

tv
 
Hi Justin,

I have done quite a bit of investigating and have a load of backing data on all the contenders for a good digital multimeter for your present needs and forcast future needs. This is what I have short-listed:

(1) Fluke model 15B+ £54 UK
(2) Fluke model 17B+ (15B+ with temperature measurement) £75 UK
(3) Fluke model 18B+ (15B+ with LED test) £85 UK

The three multimeters are basically the same: case size, ranges, measuring performance etc. The 15B+ is the base model and will be ideal for you. The 17B+ adds temperature measurement- a useful function, but do you need it for another £20 UK. The 18B+ is a 15B+ with LED test, but no temperature measurement- which is a complete waste of time, especially for an extra £30 UK.

The 15B+ and the 17B+ are recommended. If these multimeters do not suit you, I can post others , without the Fluke name, that would also be suitable.

When you evaluate the links below, check to see if the accessories are included in the deal: protective cover, and especially test leads.


15B+
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke-15B-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-Meter-Handheld-Tester-/221772479984
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke-15B-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-Meter-Handheld-Tester-/221772479984
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...ter-Tester-Volt-Ohm-Capacitance-/141650369686
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke-15...479984?hash=item33a2ab7df0:g:kQkAAOSwEeFU-QWv
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...385355?hash=item33acdb4d0b:g:c0wAAOSwA4dWJ2A1
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...369686?hash=item20fb051c96:g:VeMAAOSwqu9VOL~D
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-Au...789739?hash=item33ac1b1b6b:g:Ka8AAOSw5VFWJwjR
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-FLUK...065308?hash=item4d1f35401c:g:BKwAAOSwPhdVLgX4
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Digi...220171?hash=item3ab46e23cb:g:9vgAAOSwpDdVI5n-
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...953579?hash=item464686da6b:g:c0wAAOSwA4dWJ2A1
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...Tester-DMM-Volt-Ohm-Capacitance-/221943385355
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/iden/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-15b+.htm?pid=78680
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/iden/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-15b+.htm?pid=78680


17B+
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-QUA...r-Meter-with-12-months-warranty-/121685620269
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-QUA...620269?hash=item1c5507362d:g:O6YAAOSwMmBViNNt
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https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682
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https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682


18B+
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HANDBOOK
 

Attachments

  • Multimeter_Fluke_15B+_17B+_18B+.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 167
Last edited:
Hi Justin,

I have done quite a bit of investigating and have a load of backing data on all the contenders for a good digital multimeter for your present needs and forcast future needs.
This is what I have short-listed:

(1) Fluke models 15B+ £54 UK
(2) Fluke model 17B+ (15B+ with temperature measurement) £75 UK
(3) Fluke model 18B+ (15B+ with LED test) £85 UK

The three are basically thr same: case size, ranges measuring performance etc. The 15B+ is the base model and will be ideal for you. The 17B+ adds temperature measurement- a useful function, but do you need it for another £20 UK. The 18B+ is a 15B+ with LED test, but no temperature test- which is a complete waste of time, especially for an extra £30 UK.

The 15B+ and the 17B+ are recommended. If these multimeters do not suit you I can post others , without the Fluke name, that would also be suitable.

15B+
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke-15B-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-Meter-Handheld-Tester-/221772479984
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke-15B-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-Meter-Handheld-Tester-/221772479984
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...ter-Tester-Volt-Ohm-Capacitance-/141650369686
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke-15...479984?hash=item33a2ab7df0:g:kQkAAOSwEeFU-QWv
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...385355?hash=item33acdb4d0b:g:c0wAAOSwA4dWJ2A1
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...369686?hash=item20fb051c96:g:VeMAAOSwqu9VOL~D
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-Au...789739?hash=item33ac1b1b6b:g:Ka8AAOSw5VFWJwjR
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-FLUK...065308?hash=item4d1f35401c:g:BKwAAOSwPhdVLgX4
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Digi...220171?hash=item3ab46e23cb:g:9vgAAOSwpDdVI5n-
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...953579?hash=item464686da6b:g:c0wAAOSwA4dWJ2A1
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLUKE-F1...Tester-DMM-Volt-Ohm-Capacitance-/221943385355
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/iden/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-15b+.htm?pid=78680
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/iden/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-15b+.htm?pid=78680

17B+
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-QUA...r-Meter-with-12-months-warranty-/121685620269
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-QUA...620269?hash=item1c5507362d:g:O6YAAOSwMmBViNNt
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https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682
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https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682
https://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/di...-purpose-multimeters/fluke-17b+.htm?pid=78682

18B+
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HANDBOOK
I was thinking a Fluke would be the best choice and I know how reputable they are but for the same price as the 15B+ (Sadly the most I can spend at the moment) I can get the one I showed you before for that comes with a few more extras so I might go with that as I can also go down and pick it up tomorrow instead of waiting for it to ship to me in a few weeks but I'll definitely be sticking around this forum for a while. I'll see you round and thank you for all the help! :)
 
Hi Justin,

The mulimeter you first selected, as I said before, will be fine. I hope you get on well with your projects.

Nice talking to you

All the best

spec
 
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